By Alexei Key
Balmain‘s Spring 2025 collection takes a bold look inward. Instead of mining its eight decades of archives, Olivier Rousteing revisits the styles he brought to the runway 13 years ago when he first became creative director. It’s a confident move that reinforces the brand’s modern identity.
The collection is focused, with each piece unmistakably Balmain. The artisans have refined the precision cuts and tailoring that define the house. Powerful shoulders are more pronounced, angular hips are highlighted, and cropped jackets and skirts get fresh twists. A new trouser-boot design ensures the straight pants maintain a perfect silhouette.
Rousteing’s love for intricate details shines through. Pearl patterns and realistic portraits, some requiring hundreds of thousands of beads and weeks of work, adorn the garments. The classic marinière is reimagined, and tweed is used to create sleek ensembles that feel both familiar and new.
A personal touch comes from Rousteing’s own wardrobe. His go-to look—skinny leather pants with a double-breasted jacket over a tee or tank—becomes part of this season’s daywear. It’s a seamless blend of his personal style and design philosophy.
Introducing the new Anthem bag, Balmain continues its connection to music. Cinched with a wide belt similar to Rousteing’s signature accessory, the bag draws inspiration from the nipped waist of mid-century couture and the embrace of modern tailoring. The name highlights the brand’s ties to musical artists, emphasized earlier this year with the Beyoncé x Balmain couture collection inspired by her “Renaissance” album.
Accessories and clothing echo the angular lines of the historic Balmain perfume bottle from 1946, recently updated for the Balmain Beauty scents, Les Éternels. References to the Balmain Beauty line appear throughout, culminating in silk dresses that mirror the diverse tones of the beauty collection.
These final looks celebrate what Rousteing sees as the ultimate Balmain icon: the diverse beauty of the inclusive Balmain Army. In a time when representation is crucial, Balmain continues to set the standard.
