In his Altuzarra Spring Summer 2023 Collection, Joseph Altuzarra explores the lure of the desert. Inspired by The Teachings of Don Juan and Desert Solitaire, both published in 1968, and the adventurous spirit of the traveler, this season charts the path to mysticism, blurring lines between man and nature, the physical and spiritual.
In a move toward radical functionality, the collection begins with the return of the iconic parka, a style that was key to the brand in its early years, reimagined in a cocooning silhouette and cut in brushed cotton and double-faced wool. The collection embraces sportswear, captured in boxy tailoring and menswear-inspired shirting, soft and colorful knit separates spun in ribbed cashmere and merino, and A-line skirts featuring the signature Altuzarra slit and designed for the first time in miniature lengths.
You May Also Like: Spring Summer 2023 Trends
As the collection progresses, the dry and barren landscape of the desert catalyzes the deconstruction of these layers, conveyed in exposed lacing closures, hook and eye tapes, and rows of hand stitched buttons. The dawn of a psychedelic awakening is expressed with electrifying Shibori tie-dye, hypnotic prints, and voluminous metallic lamé. Once the layers are shed, the female form reemerges as a focus for Altuzarra and is emphasized with waist-defining ties, cinches, and cutouts that wrap and contour the body. The collection comes full circle with heavily embroidered, Shibori tie-dyed parkas: the triumph of the imagination over pragmatism.
Reflecting Altuzarra’s commitment to global craftsmanship, the rich artworks, techniques and embellishments of this season reinterpret an eclectic mix of cultures. Iconic Shibori tie-dye, an Altuzarra signature inspired by the ancient Japanese craft, is unexpectedly reworked in relaxed tailoring. Vivid, hand-dyed prints are expertly placed at seams for continuity. Intricately manipulated fabrics, from compact, pintucked knits to artfully ruched and pleated lamé, ripple throughout the collection. Inspired by the American arts and crafts movement and jewelry designer Arline Fisch, wearable jewelry and found charms are a focus of the season, hand embroidered into garments by artisans in India with a technique developed specifically for the collection.
Accessories nod to the late ‘90s and early ‘00s. The baguette is reimagined in the Parka bag, which cheekily blends the utilitarian language of this season’s outerwear—think multi pocket details and nylon cording— with the traditional hand craftsmanship and iconic braid detailing that Altuzarra is known for. The Watermill collection is rounded out with a baguette version, handwoven in Mexico from natural raffia and leather trim. The first canvas Weekender bag is introduced in Shibori tie-dye, also rendered for the first time in the leather Braid bag. In collaboration with Keds, a distressed suede and satin trainer is worn throughout the runway.
Not unlike the endless expanse of desert that inspired the collection, the show takes place at the Starrett Lehigh Building, a blank slate of raw industrial space where the imagination can take hold.
You May Also Like: Designer Collections
You May Also Like: Fashion Models
