At the James B. Duke House, an Upper East Side beacon of architectural splendor, Coach unveiled its Fall/Winter 2024 collection in a display that was nothing short of a love letter to New York’s dynamic fusion of classicism and contemporary verve. Under Stuart Vevers‘ creative directorship, now marking a significant decade, Coach ambitiously sought to bridge the generational divide, offering a fresh perspective on luxury that speaks directly to the heart of Generation Z.
“This collection is about the next generation accessing classicism and its tropes to redefine in their image and according to their needs,” Vevers articulated, encapsulating the ethos of the presentation. The collection itself was a study in contrasts, marrying the casual with the formal, the traditional with the modern. Regenerative cotton pieces and double-breasted leather trench coats were paired with oversized “C Crest” hoodies, while tuxedo jackets found their counterpoint in laid-back loungewear. This deliberate juxtaposition not only underscores Coach’s adeptness at capturing the essence of contemporary style but also reflects the unique cultural tapestry of New York City—a city that thrives on the beautiful tension between the romantic and the real.
The show was not without its moments of drama, with a PETA protester momentarily interrupting the proceedings—a testament to Coach’s place at the forefront of a fashion industry that constantly grapples with activism and change. Yet, this season, Coach’s message was clear: a celebration of youthful rebellion, self-expression, and the disruption of luxury norms.
Key to this season’s narrative was the deconstruction of luxury codes, from “Saltburn” inspired chopped-up uptown party dresses to “love worn” leather jackets that eschewed pants for a bold statement of freedom and defiance. Vevers’ vision for Coach is one where the luxury of self-expression and the dismantling of traditional sartorial boundaries are paramount. “We’re very much about self-expression, disrupting some of those luxury codes, being a little ironic with them, playing with them. But also taking some of those ladylike references and making them feel more urgent, more feminist, more everyday,” Vevers explained, highlighting the collection’s embrace of a more inclusive and expressive fashion ethos.
Menswear, too, saw a significant elevation, with sophisticated long tuxedo jackets, innovative takes on eveningwear, and a refreshed approach to trench coats and tweed jackets—all seamlessly fitting into the grandeur of the Duke mansion setting. This season also introduced “The Empire,” a new bag that encapsulates Coach’s enduring legacy in leather craftsmanship, adorned with quintessentially New York charms that celebrate the city’s iconic symbols.
At its core, Coach’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection stands as a vibrant testament to the brand’s enduring appeal, its commitment to innovation, and its homage to the city that it calls home. By inviting its audience into a club of inclusivity and diversity, Coach redefines luxury for a new era, firmly rooted in the principles of access, self-expression, and the timeless allure of New York City.
