By Alexei Key
When Jonny Johansson starts pondering about a ‘twisted domestic scenery,’ you can bet your vintage tea set that Acne Studios is about to stir the pot. “The idea for this collection started from a twisted domestic scenery. I asked myself whether classic domestic codes could actually be translated into fashion,” says Johansson, the brand’s creative director. “The end result is domestic and alien.”
Stepping into the show, it was like walking into a home where the furniture talks back—surreal but strangely inviting. Philadelphia-based artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase set the scene with an expressive installation featuring soft sculptures and reimagined household objects—lamps, fans, sinks, you name it. “I want to put a lens on interior moments—these domesticated, soft, tender moments,” says Chase. “I was thinking a lot about comfortability and vulnerability; existing unapologetically in your own space. The outside world is chaotic and hard, and I think people can consider trying to be softer.”
Johansson was drawn to Chase’s approach. “I invited the artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase to collaborate on the show because I am a big fan of their work,” he explains. “They take it somewhere else—twisting and flipping it into something you want to be part of.”
The collection plays with proportions and perceptions. Imagine your wardrobe after a spin in the washing machine—shrunk, stretched, and suddenly more interesting. Garments swing between super-shrunken and oversized, creating silhouettes that are anything but ordinary. Drapes and bows, some starched and others exaggerated, hint at home furnishings but with a twist. Layering gets inventive as classic pieces merge into hybrid forms, like you’ve raided the attic and decided to wear everything at once.
There’s a deliberate “half-dressed” vibe. Tailoring looks warped and creased, as if thrown on in a hurry. Leather comes raw-cut and minimal, offering a subversive take on luxury. Eveningwear feels undone and spontaneous, embracing an unpolished charm.
Color-wise, it’s a mix. Rich shades like chocolate brown, charcoal grey, and camel bring a touch of luxury. Black makes its mark in leather and latex. Then come the pops: sugar-coated pinks, vanilla yellows, sky blues, and pearls, interrupted by bold hits of orange, bubblegum, and coral.
Fabrics tell their own story. Denim and leather get reinvented, bonded with foam for distinct shapes. Tailoring is also bonded, giving it a stiff, structured feel. Hand-crochet knits recall doilies and tea cozies, oversized and sparkling with crystals. Other knits look worn-in and deconstructed; boiled mohair shrinks down like that sweater you ‘accidentally’ washed on hot—oops. Cotton and lycra jerseys nod to underwear, while the sheen of latex adds an almost alien touch.
Prints warp the familiar. Florals from vintage fabrics get distorted, clashing with leather and latex textures. Polka dots fade and blur, adding to the dreamy aesthetic. Plaid checks tip the hat to a masculine wardrobe.
Accessories round things out. The new Camero handbag debuts, inspired by vintage camera bags with its compact shape. The Multipocket “tool bag” is back in mock-croc leather or dressed up with crystal bows. Jewelry goes bold and sculptural—think high-shine bracelets, rings, and necklaces with irregular, hammered finishes. Heavy, oversized chains make a statement, and Swarovski crystals adorn bow-shaped bracelets and chunky rings and cuffs.
In a season where the lines between home and fashion blur, Acne Studios invites us to find comfort in the unexpected. It’s domestic, it’s alien, and it’s entirely captivating.
