By Alexei Key
In the bustling heart of Paris, Nicolas Ghesquière presented Louis Vuitton‘s Spring 2025 collection—a vivid exploration of contrasts that felt both unexpected and perfectly in tune with the times. “Soft power,” he called it. “We thought it would be very interesting to break boundaries and to try to define architecture in fluidity, strength in airiness, and how you can evoke this powerful silhouette, but in movement,” Ghesquière shared during the preview.
Drawing inspiration from his roots in France’s Loire Valley, a region steeped in Renaissance history and royal palaces, Ghesquière has always been intrigued by eras where fashion took bold new steps. “They decided to dress up, to embellish. Of course, there was some opulence, too, and they wanted newness,” he reflected on that transformative period.
The collection kicked off with strong-shouldered jackets reminiscent of doublets, paired unexpectedly with biker shorts and breeches that fastened just below the knee. It was a nod to the past, reimagined for today. As models moved down the runway, the pieces seemed to float—jackets felt like blouses, coats like robes, and skirts as effortless as a draped scarf. The fabrics were incredibly light, yet the silhouettes held a certain authority.
Ghesquière isn’t one to shy away from a bit of futurism. Silvery touches hinted at his love for sci-fi, and asymmetry played a key role—like a minidress anchored by just one pant leg, a bold move that reminded everyone of his fearless approach to design.
The collaboration with artist Laurent Grasso added another layer of intrigue. Select pieces featured works from Grasso’s “Studies into the Past,” blending historical imagery with surreal elements. The result? Iridescent shirts and shimmering skirts that closed the show, leaving the audience in awe.
Accessories embraced a “more is more” philosophy. Oversized necklaces were layered with abandon, and shoes came adorned with feathers, adding to the collection’s dynamic energy. Bags didn’t go unnoticed either. From the roomy Greenwich tote, resurrected from the archives, to fresh designs bursting with youthful flair, Louis Vuitton’s craftsmanship was on full display.
All of this unfolded to the rhythms of Jamie xx‘s new album, “In Waves,” a soundtrack that perfectly matched the show’s vibe—modern beats with depth and texture.
Ghesquière has a knack for weaving together threads from different times, creating something that feels both familiar and entirely new. This season, he didn’t just blur the lines between past and present; he danced along them, inviting us all to join in. The Louis Vuitton Spring 2025 collection wasn’t just a fashion show—it was a masterclass in balancing contradictions and finding harmony in the unexpected.
