Peter Do, fresh from his acclaimed showcase at Helmut Lang during New York Fashion Week, has unveiled his latest vision in Paris with the Fall/Winter 2024 collection, aptly named “Áo Dài.” The title pays homage to the traditional Vietnamese silk tunic and pants ensemble, reinterpreted through Do’s innovative lens in a tranquil French gallery setting. This collection is a testament to Do’s continual dialogue with his heritage, merging it seamlessly with his sharp, modern aesthetic.
The collection is a revolution in fluidity and structure. Fabrics flow effortlessly, defying the rigid confines of traditional formalwear and celebrating the gentle drapes of áo dài. A standout feature is the collection’s sole print: bold, abstract black-and-white brush strokes that dance across turtleneck sweaters and structured blazers. This artistic infusion adds a layer of depth and conversation to the otherwise monochromatic palette of black, white, grey, and brown.
Do’s designs play with the architecture of clothing. Overcoats with inverted lapels hide their construction, while knee-length shirts are cinched at the waist, offering a flattering silhouette. Echoing his earlier disruptor, the backless men’s tops from the Spring 2023 collection, this season introduces backless long-sleeves that merge the line between exposure and elegance.
In this collection, Peter Do continues to blur the lines between masculine and feminine fashion. His use of sharp shoulders against the soft contours of flowing gowns showcases his ability to balance contrast with harmony. Through these pieces, Do doesn’t just design clothes; he crafts a narrative of cultural respect and sartorial innovation, presenting a collection that’s both a nod to tradition and a stride towards the future of fashion.
