An exploration of brand codes past, present and future, the Proenza Schouler Resort / Pre-Spring 2023 collection aims at connecting the dots between what came before and what lies ahead. Brand-building continues to be paramount, with a focus on a continual evolution from season to season rather than a complete rupture with what came before. The Proenza Schouler women invests in thoughtful clothes that layer into her existing wardrobe seamlessly, and although timeless in some ways, they nevertheless retain an air of innovation and absolute currency. These are clothes for the intelligent, adult, urban woman of today that retain a relaxed sense of ease while never compromising on polish and innovation.
Molded, waisted shapes continue to evolve, this time abbreviated and embellished with integral knitted fringe. Short lengths are full skirted and are grounded with flat Grip Boots that anchor the silhouette to today. Embroidered knitwear appears through sequin- encrusted yarn that when knitted integrally, hints at the embellishment within rather than displaying it on the surface for all to see. A certain discretion is key. Prints are transferred onto blank dresses rather than on fabric, subverting the traditional process and creating interruptions and discrepancies that blur the line between propriety and a raw, undone quality that is integral to any Proenza Schouler collection. Velvets are an important nod to the cold weather delivery period, and are cut into soft, drapey panne separates and gathered into shape with minimal seams. Velvet is also cut into yarn and knitted to retain the plushness of the original textile but gains the elasticity and modernity of ribbed sweaters. Crystal embroidery is modernized when hung on easy crepe jersey separates. Color continues to be important, and this time run the gamut from the palest of lavenders and blues to electric tangerines and strong cobalt blues, the whole palette grounded by shades of earthy khakis and sharpened through the use of graphic black and white.
The Drawstring Tote, first introduced for Fall 2022, is cut in laminated metallic nappa leather that retains the lightness of the original but refreshed with a new technical crunch. The Braid Bag continues to be important and comes in a myriad of new colors that nod to the ready-to-wear while shaded for leather goods. The new rubber-soled Stomp Boot serves as the counterpoint to the Grip Boot in heft, weight, and attitude.
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