Weekly Spotlight: Models Push Fashion Workers Act, Burton at Givenchy, Philo Expands, and More
By Sirena Kuo
1. Models Push Governor Hochul to Sign Fashion Workers Act During NYFW
On day five of New York Fashion Week, a group of models took their activism off the runway and into the streets, delivering over 100 letters to Governor Kathy Hochul’s office, urging her to sign the Fashion Workers Act into law. Led by the Model Alliance, the models, including names like Amber Valletta, Irina Shayk, and Karen Elson, called for protections against exploitation and abuse in the fashion industry. The act, which passed New York’s legislative bodies in July, still awaits Hochul’s signature to become law. With letters in hand, the models pushed for urgent action, emphasizing that many of their peers continue to work without basic protections. The law would regulate management agencies, ensuring transparency around compensation and contracts, and safeguard against the misuse of models’ likeness in digital forms. As Fashion Week buzzed with political energy—from voter registration efforts to reproductive justice advocacy—the models’ rally outside Hochul’s office was a reminder that behind the glamour, there’s a fight for labor rights.
2. Sarah Burton Named New Creative Director at Givenchy
Sarah Burton has been appointed as the new creative director of Givenchy, marking a major transition for the LVMH-owned house. Burton, who spent over 25 years at Alexander McQueen and took the reins after McQueen’s passing in 2010, is known for her unique blend of poetry and functionality in her designs. At Givenchy, she follows in the footsteps of her mentor Lee McQueen, who held the same role from 1996 to 2001. Burton’s time at McQueen was defined by a softer, more luxurious approach to the brand’s dramatic, often provocative style. Her move to Givenchy comes as the brand looks to stabilize after going through three creative directors in less than a decade, with her appointment ending a year-long search following Matthew Williams’ departure in late 2023. Burton’s arrival signals a fresh start for Givenchy, which has oscillated between streetwear influences and classic French elegance in recent years, and now looks poised to find a new balance under her direction.
3. Phoebe Philo Expands into Brick-and-Mortar Wholesale
Less than a year after Phoebe Philo’s highly anticipated launch, the designer is evolving her distribution model by adding brick-and-mortar wholesale to her LVMH-backed label. After starting with an online-only, direct-to-consumer strategy, Philo is expanding into physical retail, partnering with select luxury stores across Europe and the US. The third “edit” from her brand will drop online on September 10, followed by its debut at prestigious retailers like 10 Corso Como, Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Neiman Marcus, and The Webster. This shift comes as interest in Philo’s online drops, once sold out within hours, has started to cool, with ready-to-wear and accessories still available online. The move to mix digital and physical retail allows Philo to tap into the experiential side of fashion shopping, especially as the online luxury market faces challenges, with major players like Farfetch and Matchesfashion scaling back their operations. For Philo, it’s a natural evolution as her brand matures and seeks to reach a broader audience while maintaining its exclusivity.
4. Chanel Owners and L’Oréal Heir Invest in Olsens’ Fashion Label The Row
The Row, the luxury label founded by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, has attracted new investment from some of the most powerful names in fashion and beauty. The Wertheimer family, owners of Chanel, and L’Oréal heiress Francoise Bettencourt Meyers have both taken minority stakes in the brand through their respective investment firms, Mousse Partners and Tethys Invest. This new backing values The Row at around $1 billion, marking a significant milestone for the label that has built its reputation on understated, refined luxury. Also joining the investment is Imaginary Ventures, co-founded by Net-a-Porter’s Natalie Massenet. Despite these changes, the Olsen sisters will retain majority control of the company, which continues to grow its influence in the fashion world with its Paris Fashion Week presentations and highly coveted designs like the $7,000 Margaux handbag. This move further strengthens The Row’s position as a quiet luxury powerhouse, while giving it the financial backing to continue expanding globally.
5. Hodakova Wins the LVMH Prize 2024 for Young Fashion Designers
The 2024 LVMH Prize winners have been revealed, spotlighting a diverse array of global talent, with Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson taking the top honor. Larsson, whose upcycling brand Hodakova has been making waves for its focus on sustainability, became the first Swedish designer to claim the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, a prestigious accolade accompanied by a €400,000 endowment and a mentorship from LVMH. Her brand’s unconventional approach, which recycles everyday items into high fashion, was already gaining traction, and this win cements Hodakova as a brand to watch as they gear up for their Paris Fashion Week SS25 debut. Alongside Larsson, Dutch designer Duran Lantink secured the Karl Lagerfeld Prize for his gender-fluid collections, and Irish designer Michael Stewart’s label Standing Ground was recognized with the inaugural Savoir-Faire Prize for its exceptional craftsmanship and innovative techniques. Each winner not only receives financial support but also year-long guidance from the LVMH team, propelling them further into the industry spotlight.
6. Glenn Martens Steps Down as Creative Director of Y/Project After 11 Years
After 11 years at the helm, Glenn Martens is stepping down as creative director of Y/Project, a brand he transformed into one of Paris Fashion Week’s most exciting and unconventional labels. Known for his innovative approach to pattern-making, Martens brought a distinct sense of novelty to everyday staples like jeans and blazers, turning them into avant-garde statements with details like asymmetrical cuts, pleats, and adjustable panels. Under his leadership, Y/Project gained a global following, dressing stars like Rihanna and Charli XCX, and winning the prestigious ANDAM award twice. While juggling his role at Y/Project, Martens also became creative director of Diesel, a position he continues to hold as he prepares for his upcoming show at Milan Fashion Week. His departure comes at a pivotal moment for Y/Project, which sat out the last Paris Fashion Week, and faces an uncertain future following the recent passing of co-founder Gilles Elalouf.
7. Cult Gaia Enters Beauty with Debut Fragrance Collection
Cult Gaia is stepping into the beauty world with the launch of its first fragrance line, marking a major move toward becoming a full lifestyle brand. Known for its architectural bags and sleek occasionwear, the label is releasing three scents—Mast, Zan, and Noor—each housed in 50 ml bottles priced at $228. Developed with a Swiss manufacturer, the fragrances will be available exclusively at Cult Gaia’s stores and online. Founder Jasmin Larian Hekmat sees fragrance as a natural extension of the brand’s identity, having dreamt of creating a signature scent to reflect her store’s atmosphere. This push into beauty comes as the brand continues its evolution from viral accessories—like the Ark bag—to a multifaceted fashion powerhouse, now generating over $50 million in annual sales. With perfume sales booming, Cult Gaia is leveraging its existing customer base, offering free test kits in stores to gauge interest before expanding into retail. It’s a calculated move into a tough market, dominated by major names, but Hekmat is betting on the brand’s ability to create lasting memories through scent.
