Gucci‘s Cruise 2025 collection, unveiled at London’s Tate Modern, encapsulates Creative Director Sabato De Sarno‘s reflections and insights, blending the storied heritage of Gucci with his personal narrative. The setting—Tate Modern—was strategically chosen to echo the sentiments of innovation and cultural synthesis that are intrinsic to Gucci’s identity, much like The Savoy Hotel did for founder Guccio Gucci a century ago.
Sabato De Sarno shared, “Fashion design is an avenue to probe, navigate, and reimagine. After exploring themes of desirability and sensuality, this collection introduces a new chapter—romantic, yet paradoxical. It’s about reinterpreting the familiar, pushing boundaries while maintaining its essence, and achieving a harmonious contradiction.”
The collection itself is a study in dualities: rigor meets extravagance, and strength is found in delicacy, embodying a uniquely Anglo-Italian narrative. Technical gabardine short coats with precise tailoring contrast with whimsical chamomile flora motifs, embroidered in three-dimensional organza and hand-shaped sequins, adding movement and texture. This interplay between the robust and the ethereal is further explored with protective outerwear juxtaposed against delicate chiffons, ruffles, and lace, creating a continuous dialogue between evening elegance and everyday practicality.
Innovative reinterpretations of traditional elements, such as the lobster-clasp transformed into a delicate pearl necklace or horsebit details adorning suede in homage to Gucci’s equestrian heritage, illustrate the blending of function and adornment. The collection also challenges conventional perceptions of denim and footwear, presenting them in unexpected forms like relaxed fits and flat shoes—ballerinas and creepers—that redefine modern attitudes.
Iconic British styles like tartans are revitalized through intricate beadwork, while the Gucci Blondie bag, reminiscent of Italy in the 1970s, merges luxury with utility, its logo reimagined in leather or intricate jewelry techniques.
With this collection, De Sarno not only pays homage to Gucci’s rich history but also propels it into the future, utilizing fashion as a universal language that bridges cultures and eras. It’s an ode to the creative spirit of London, a city that continues to inspire and shape the narrative of Gucci, just as it has nurtured and influenced De Sarno himself.
