Helmut Lang Spring Summer 2024

Two years ago, Peter Do showcased his collections on the runway for the first time, after having launched his own brand earlier. Today, he’s stepping into a legacy left by one of the most recognized names of the past 25 years.

In designing his line, Do delved deep into the brand’s history. The recurring yellow taxi print was a tribute to Lang’s revolutionary choice to advertise on taxi roofs, previously seen as too commonplace for luxury fashion. This theme also inspired a poem by Do’s collaborator, Ocean Vuong, printed on the venue’s floor—a nod to the original Helmut Lang store’s art piece. The lines, “Your car was my first room / Our clothes on the floor like stepped-on flowers,” were also featured on button-down shirts, visible as models strutted down the runway.

Do’s touch is evident in the meticulous tailoring that mirrors Lang’s style: seamless pants, gender-neutral jackets, and top-tier coats, made from quality materials. The seat belt designs across the chest reference the subculture of bondage clubs; however, without them, the suits easily blend into more conventional settings.

The new Helmut Lang collection aims to offer high-end suits at more accessible prices. Do emphasized the importance of producing long-lasting garments that are affordable. He mentioned he wouldn’t have accepted this role if the price points mirrored his personal brand. His commitment to differentiating between the two brands he’s now overseeing showcases not just his passion for design but also his business acumen. He respects his design inspirations but remains pragmatic about the commercial side of fashion.

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