In her latest collection for Fall Winter 2024, Sacai’s visionary designer Chitose Abe presents an exploration of silhouette and form. The collection pivots around the concept of the ‘uniform,’ not just as a style statement but as a symbol of unity and shared values. Abe’s approach this season is distinctly monochromatic, a strategic choice that draws attention to the unique shapes and structures of the garments.
Abe redefines the traditional notion of silhouette with her designs. The collection features a refreshing round silhouette, marked by voluminous sleeves, creating an almost sculptural effect. This is balanced by elongated vertical hybrids, comprising of long, twisted strips, sometimes with the added detail of zippers, offering a new perspective on verticality in fashion.
The theme of recontextualization is evident in the use of garment-dyed pastels, which infuse the collection with a sense of softness, challenging the original intent of the uniforms. This softness is further accentuated in the innovative use of knitwear patterns, now reimagined in woven fabrics and sequins, then reconstructed into vertical forms. The menswear line introduces new shapes through ultra-baggy pants and inventive bomber jacket/shirt hybrids, redefining menswear silhouettes.
Collaboration remains a cornerstone of Sacai’s ethos, as seen in the partnership with artist and street skating icon Mark Gonzales. His artwork adorns a series of badges on the beloved Spiewak G8 jacket, creating a unique dual collaboration. This synergy extends to footwear, with J.M. Weston Golf Derbies and Worker boots reimagined with Sacai’s iconic sneaker sole, blending classic and contemporary in a harmonious fusion.
In summary, Sacai’s Fall Winter 2024 collection stands out as a testament to Chitose Abe’s ingenuity in reinventing and reinterpreting the ‘uniform,’ showcasing her ability to blend form, function, and fashion in a seamless and innovative manner.
