Chitose Abe, the creative force behind Sacai, has long been recognized for her inventive takes on familiar wardrobe staples. For Spring 2024, she delved into the philosophy of “The simpler we are, the more complete we become,” a sentiment echoed by renowned French artist Auguste Rodin. Abe’s fresh designs bring this philosophy to life, with her creations suggesting effortless simplicity at first glance, but revealing intricate design details upon closer examination.
Abe’s innovation this season revolved around a play of volume and silhouette, emphasizing circles and asymmetry. This was most evident in her shirts and jackets that seem almost spherical in nature, derived from circular pattern techniques. The familiarity of these pieces came from the everyday materials used like denim and shirting, but their unique construction held the surprise. For instance, a fair isle sweater found a new expression as a rounded form, and camisoles and slip dresses were cleverly integrated with outerwear, symbolizing Abe’s signature hybridization.
A standout element was her use of strategic cuts and slashes, transforming staple garments into playful and asymmetrical versions of themselves. This method not only created unexpected openings but also redefined the front and back of garments. For instance, what seemed like a jacket’s pocket was, in fact, a playful cut revealing a hint of skin.
Though there was an air of simplicity, Abe’s pieces were anything but straightforward. Jackets and shirts sported arching seams, giving a circular silhouette from the side, and an added seam generated a rounded appearance from the front. Many garments had ample volume, with some revealing flashes of midriff, while others, like a trench and shirtdress, featured extended watteau backs. Despite the generous use of fabric, there was an underlying sense of relaxed elegance.
Amidst this sartorial play, Abe did not forget to emphasize her underlying mantra, resonating with the notion that “Love is best.”
For the Spring 2024 show, fashion enthusiasts gathered at an innovative spiraled car park runway setting. Notable attendees included Pharrell Williams, Tyga, and SAINt JHN. The collection departed from Sacai’s previously known bomber jacket-centric look, offering designs that were both practical and provocative. Opening with a cropped wool blazer, the collection unveiled puffed shirtings, sheer tops, and hooded vests with extended mini skirts. Sacai also showcased an interesting interplay of military hues and mismatched striped garments, challenging the norms yet again.
Ultimately, while Abe hinted at simplicity, her Spring 2024 collection was a testament to her mastery in construction and her ability to continuously reinvent. Through her inventive patterns and designs, she showcased that simplicity is not the absence of complexity, but the pinnacle of it.
