At the commencement of Paris Fashion Week, marking the completion of the Spring/Summer 2024 seasonal fashion calendar, Saint Laurent, under the refined direction of Belgian-Italian designer Anthony Vaccarello, presented a collection synonymous with sophistication and revolutionary elegance. The show was prominently set against the iconic Eiffel Tower, serving as a monumental backdrop to a collection that blended Saint Laurent’s traditional aesthetic with modern, utilitarian edge.
Anthony Vaccarello paid homage to Saint Laurent’s foundational values while incorporating his distinctive flair, staging a show that brought together friends, family, and a galaxy of stars including Kate Moss, Hailey Bieber, Zoë Kravitz, Shalom Harlow, Amber Valletta, Demi Moore, and Emma Mackey. The attendees, predominantly dressed in neutral palettes, aligning with the brand’s aesthetic vision, experienced the rich legacy and effortless elegance of Saint Laurent.
The collection, rooted in the brand’s iconic style, was an ode to powerful and pioneering women like Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland, reflecting a meticulous blend of feminine and masculine elements. It celebrated the relentless spirit and groundbreaking styles of female aviators, showcasing pieces that balanced utility and elegance, with every outfit reflecting a modern interpretation of Saint Laurent’s storied heritage.
The array of ensembles were rendered in a palette of burgundy, brown, and cream, highlighting fluid silhouettes and softer elegance while maintaining an undercurrent of assertive femininity. The runway saw models in service jackets and pleated trousers, counterbalanced by sheer tops outlining the human form. The collection showcased an amalgamation of untucked shirts, cargo-style dresses, cinched waist belts, and wide-leg trousers, accompanied by oversized sunglasses and leather gloves, every piece symbolizing a blend of resilience and refined aesthetics.
Vaccarello’s designs resonated with Yves Saint Laurent’s enduring commitment to empowering women through fashion. He preserved the core essence of the house, presenting softer, looser silhouettes alongside utilitarian garments and incorporating elements of men’s wardrobes reimagined with a feminine touch. This modern twist to power dressing denotes a shift from structure to simplicity, from sharp lines to refined, gentle elegance.
While delving into the experimental, Vaccarello respected the brand’s revolutionary silhouettes like the Le Smoking suit and the Modrian Shift, focusing on the needs of the modern YSL woman and staying true to the brand’s relentless and innovative origins. The collection, while presenting a modern view, was grounded in the house’s roots, focusing on the foundational values of Saint Laurent with a contemporary gaze.
The presentation’s stage, a convergence of modernist and geometric elements, was a reflection of soft elegance set against the kaleidoscopic and mineral surfaces, enhancing the grandeur of the showcase. The designs, having the essence of casual chicness, were a tribute to the 70-year heritage of Saint Laurent, presenting a cohesive collection that explored the realms of simplicity and elegance without compromising on the bold essence of the brand.
In summary, Saint Laurent’s SS24 collection, under the skilled craftsmanship of Anthony Vaccarello, was a harmonious blend of past and present, bringing forth a contemporary approach to the brand’s foundational aesthetics. The groundbreaking presentation at Paris Fashion Week, with its star-studded attendance and powerful renditions of the brand’s heritage, echoed the enduring allure and revolutionary spirit of Saint Laurent.
