Alessandro Michele, formerly the creative maestro at Gucci, has introduced his first collection for Valentino a bit earlier than anticipated, ahead of his official Spring 2025 debut. This Resort 2025 collection unveils a vivid reimagining of the Valentino ethos, presented in a comprehensive 171-look lineup that seamlessly incorporates Michele’s distinctive flair for the maximalist and the ornate.
From the moment he stepped into Valentino, Michele found immediate resonance with the house’s legacy, deeply influenced by the foundational elements laid by Valentino Garavani himself. “This place is as deep as the ocean,” Michele remarked, emphasizing his connection not only to the brand’s aesthetic heritage but to its very soul, which he perceives as untainted by the commercial pressures of modern fashion branding.
His Resort collection, revealed in Paris but deeply rooted in the Roman spirit of the label, is a testament to this sentiment. The range is a tribute to various eras, with discernible influences from the ’60s and ’70s—decades marked by Valentino’s deft balancing of innovation and elegance. Michele’s designs avoid the hedonistic excesses of these times yet embrace their spirit through intricate paisley motifs, tiered skirts, and fringed accessories, all speaking to a bohemian luxe sensibility.
Significant too is the array of garments Michele has crafted in Valentino’s signature red, alongside a spectrum of whites and creams, channeling Garavani’s iconic all-white couture collection from 1968. This color scheme extends into sophisticated menswear, including a striking kimono-like jacket and pants ensemble, accentuated with geometric and floral embellishments.
In accessories, Michele’s prowess is unmistakable. The collection boasts an array of meticulously crafted items from crocodile purses to cork platform sneakers, each adorned with the redesigned V logo, which subtly blends the historic with the contemporary.
Michele’s exploration of gender fluidity—a theme he has nurtured throughout his career—is evident in his presentation of the pussy-bow blouse for men, a nod to his groundbreaking work at Gucci. His approach to Valentino continues this dialogue, challenging traditional binaries and celebrating a spectrum of identities through fashion.
As Michele anticipates the forthcoming couture line, his Resort collection already hints at the levels of intricacy and luxury that might be expected. With a commitment to honoring the craftsmanship of Valentino’s artisans, Michele finds himself “sitting on a gold mine” of creative potential.
This collection not only paves the way for Michele’s future at Valentino but also marks a distinct departure from the monochromatic precision of his predecessor, Pierpaolo Piccioli. As Michele steps into new territory, the fashion world watches eagerly, anticipating the next chapter of Valentino, which promises to meld historical reverence with daring, forward-thinking design.
