The Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 collection embodies a compelling fusion of contrasts, showcasing the designers’ adeptness at balancing the dichotomy of polish and rawness, structure and spontaneity, seriousness and whimsy. This season, the fashion house unveiled 28 distinctive all-black ensembles, methodically arranged in seven groups of four, each group telling a unique story of craftsmanship and creativity.
At the core of each group is a flawlessly tailored couture piece, hand-finished with an attention to detail that sets the standard for the collection. This initial piece serves as a creative springboard for the subsequent three designs within the group, each exploring the artistic potential of tailor’s scissors used in an unrestrained, experimental fashion. The journey from the precision of Rorschach-like patterns to the bold statement of a ballgown sliced in half is a testament to the controlled yet dynamic nature of the collection.
The essence of paradox is evident in the way Viktor&Rolf juxtapose the refined completion of their couture pieces with the raw, unbridled energy of scissor-cut designs. This approach challenges traditional perceptions of finished and unfinished in fashion, turning the first look of each group from a seemingly conclusive design into the beginning of a new creative exploration.
The designers’ philosophy, that everything is in a state of constant change, resonates with the historic setting of La Sorbonne university, a place that has been ‘creating futures’ since 1257. This sentiment is reflected in the collection’s exploration of evolving forms and ideas.
Executed in a palette devoid of color, the collection focuses on silhouette and texture, utilizing fabrics like velvet, sequins, and satin in both fluid and compact forms. This choice accentuates the detailed cuttings that form decorative patterns of slashes and holes, inviting glimpses of the body in unexpected ways.
Completing the looks are black Falke stockings and Christian Louboutin heels, offered in four distinct finishes, which add another layer of sophistication and depth to the collection. Viktor&Rolf’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 collection stands as a testament to the beauty of contradiction, a harmonious blend of the polished and the raw, the meticulous and the impromptu, the serious and the playful.
