Matthew Williams has clearly marked a deviation from his predecessors since his inaugural collections for Givenchy, introducing a distinct aesthetic. The designer seamlessly amalgamated the dynamic appeal of Alyx, his co-founded streetwear magnate that garnered him a nomination for the LVMH Prize, with the timeless elegance of Givenchy. It highlighted sharp, sophisticated silhouettes and unexpected cutouts, draped in leather, contrasting with the elegant haute couture of Clare Waight Keller, and seemingly veering towards the commercial yet avant-garde appeal of the Riccardo Tisci era.
Givenchy has since undergone a thoughtful refinement, placing emphasis on detailed tailoring and distinguished separates that harmoniously blend femininity with the signature boldness of Williams. This evolution in design aesthetic has subtly unfolded, with the Fall 2023 collection hinting at the unforeseen potential within his eveningwear designs. The Spring 2024 collection, unveiled at the École Militaire during Paris Fashion Week, showcased a more subdued and elegant rendition of Givenchy.
The collection featured structured blazers and coats layered over sheer slip dresses, midi skirts, and fluid blouses, with trousers noticeably absent from the ensemble. The predominant black was interspersed with soft yellows, refreshing greens, gentle blues, and lilacs. Florals made a significant appearance, which is a novel venture for a Matthew Williams collection. The gowns stood out, highlighting the finesse of Givenchy’s craftsmanship with intricately beaded skirts visible under a sheer façade.
The distinctive touch of Williams is evident but tastefully executed, with styling elements like knee-high stockings paired with heels and leather offset by chiffon. The collection offers a versatile appeal, resonating with a diverse clientele, be it professionals attracted to the outerwear, street-style aficionados to the slip dresses, or celebrities to the glamorous gowns. The accessories, particularly the bags, continue to be a defining component of the collection.
In sum, the Givenchy Summer 2024 collection, with its refined silhouettes and thoughtful details, marked a harmonious blend of Matthew Williams’ contemporary boldness with the brand’s enduring elegance, appealing to a broad spectrum of style palettes.