Anthony Vaccarello steered Saint Laurent toward a clean, almost architectural direction for Fall/Winter 2025, unveiling a concise lineup beneath the Eiffel Tower on the closing night of Paris Fashion Week. The house’s core identity—rooted in exacting lines and a lack of unnecessary detail—was on full display, hinting at its founding devotion to pared-back silhouettes that still make a strong impression.
Attendees found themselves in a setting ringed by digital panels recalling rippled stone, echoing the show’s mineral inspiration. An immense, onyx-like oval dominated the space, reflecting the label’s current fascination with otherworldly textures. The first exit emerged in a short, angular dress with broad shoulders and a tall, structured collar. Vivid shades continued to appear, with pieces in marigold, teal, and fuchsia carrying the energy of Saint Laurent’s signature color codes.
Model Bella Hadid—radiant in a bright-blue lace look—underscored the collection’s play on unexpected materials. Pieces crafted from silicone-based fabric boasted floral or leopard motifs, challenging convention with subtle transparency. Meanwhile, slip dresses offered ballooned silhouettes below a dropped waist, gliding through the venue in a cloudlike drift. Stretch fabrics were paired with guipure, while couture textiles were given a worn-in finish, resulting in carefully sculpted shapes that felt both classic and forward-thinking.
Rock crystal jewelry, a nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s fabled love of lucky talismans, brought light and movement to these spare silhouettes. Pointed shoes adorned with a polished satin accent provided a sharp counterbalance to the otherwise restrained mood. Leather blousons teamed with stone-washed skirts offered a cool contrast to more fluid dresses, making the eye move between fitted and voluminous moments.
Vaccarello’s latest showing arrived just as Saint Laurent expands its Rive Droite concept in Los Angeles, merging ready-to-wear with art and cultural collaborations. Front-row guests included Austin Butler, Zoë Kravitz, Kid Cudi, Charli XCX, and beloved Parisian figures Betty Catroux, Catherine Deneuve, Carla Bruni, and Charlotte Gainsbourg—each personifying the house’s ability to unite diverse creative spirits. By finale time, the message was undeniable: Saint Laurent’s modern, controlled flair still resonates as powerfully as ever.
