Weekly Spotlight: Phoebe Philo Expands, Reformation Launches Jewelry, Victoria’s Secret Returns, and More
By Sirena Kuo
1. Phoebe Philo Brings Her Label to Asia-Pacific
Phoebe Philo‘s eponymous label is taking a major step forward, expanding into the Asia-Pacific region. After a successful initial launch, the brand now shifts its focus globally, launching an online platform and joining forces with key wholesale partners. Starting in November, customers in Australia, Hong Kong, Japan, Singapore, and South Korea will have access to Philo’s signature pieces online, with an expanded range dropping early in 2025. Retail-wise, the brand will make its debut at iconic spots like Dover Street Market Ginza and Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo, Parlour X in Sydney, and Shinsegae International in Seoul. This move follows her earlier expansion to Bergdorf Goodman, 10 Corso Como, and select Dover Street Market locations in New York, Milan, London, and Paris, as well as a curated presence at Maxfield, Neiman Marcus, and The Webster in the US. Philo continues to refine her direct-to-consumer approach, keeping her creative freedom at the core. The Asia-Pacific audience is now invited into Philo’s world, where the designer remains committed to her independent vision, redefining luxury fashion on her own terms.
2. Reformation Debuts Jewelry Collection by Clare Waight Keller
Reformation teams up with Clare Waight Keller for its first jewelry collection, a line that fuses modern sensibility with a nod to 1920s Paris. Crafted from recycled materials like 24-karat gold vermeil, sterling silver, and deadstock pearls, the collection of earrings, bracelets, and necklaces is now available for pre-order. Drawing inspiration from Ernest Hemingway’s “A Moveable Feast,” the designs capture the creative spirit of Parisian influence on American artists. This marks another step for Reformation into the accessories world, following last year’s handbag debut, and comes as the Los Angeles-based brand eyes an expansion into the French market in 2025.
3. The Victoria’s Secret Show Returns to the Runway
Victoria’s Secret returned to the runway this week, staging its first fashion show in six years and putting nostalgia and reinvention on display at Brooklyn’s Navy Yard. The spectacle opened with Gigi Hadid in iconic feathered wings, followed by veterans like Tyra Banks and Adriana Lima, who joined a cast that mixed familiar faces with a diverse array of new talent, including plus-size and transgender models. The show featured a fresh female gaze, with a production team led by Sarah Sylvester and Janie Schaffer, emphasizing inclusivity and comfort alongside signature lingerie. While the throwback elements were unmistakable—think elaborate wings, a soft pink aesthetic, and big-name musical performances—Victoria’s Secret made efforts to modernize, presenting leggings, pajamas, and intimate apparel designed with today’s consumers in mind. Behind the scenes, the brand grappled with its image crisis, aiming to regain market relevance in a landscape now dominated by competitors like Skims. While opinions about the comeback remain mixed, the event was undeniably a statement—a signal that Victoria’s Secret is determined to reclaim some of its lost allure by balancing heritage with modern values.
4. Altuzarra Secures Funding from New Venture Firm P180
Altuzarra is stepping into a new phase with a strategic partnership backed by P180, a venture capital fund spearheaded by Brendan Hoffman and Christine Hunsicker. The 16-year-old womenswear brand is set to elevate its direct-to-consumer focus, leveraging P180’s support to enhance its e-commerce capabilities and streamline operations through the CaaStle platform. This move allows Joseph Altuzarra and his team to concentrate on design and expanding retail partnerships while utilizing CaaStle for inventory management, returns, and even adding rental options for Altuzarra pieces. The investment aims to position Altuzarra for profitability, with P180 offering a fresh perspective on inventory and growth. Additionally, Altuzarra’s recent collaboration as a designer-in-residence for Victoria’s Secret signals an ambition to boost brand visibility, with new ready-to-wear collections expected to capture a broader audience. It’s a deliberate move to blend creativity with strategic growth, redefining what’s next for Altuzarra.
5. Alberta Ferretti Appoints Lorenzo Serafini as Creative Director
Lorenzo Serafini has been appointed creative director of Alberta Ferretti, taking over from the brand’s founder as she steps down from her creative role but remains vice president of Aeffe. Serafini, who joined Aeffe in 2014 to relaunch the Philosophy line, will now lead Alberta Ferretti as the Italian ready-to-wear group integrates Philosophy into the main brand for Autumn-Winter 2025. This internal promotion is aimed at streamlining costs and strengthening brand appeal amid challenging market conditions. Serafini expressed his gratitude for the opportunity to carry on Ferretti’s legacy, while Ferretti herself emphasized her confidence in his creative vision and expertise to guide the brand forward.
