In the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Acne Studios, under the creative direction of Jonny Johansson, displayed a masterful blend of avant-garde ingenuity and casual sophistication. The collection was showcased at L’Observatoire de Paris, adorned with elements of unconventional allure like a deconstructed disco ball and soft furnishings by Austrian artist Lukas Gschwandtner, setting the stage for a liberating encounter with fashion.
In attendance were notable personalities like ROSALÍA, Kylie Jenner, and Emma Chamberlain who witnessed the brand’s translation of sensuality and industrial inspiration into wearable art. This collection was notably influenced by Katerina Jebb’s work, ‘Physical Evidence of a Woman,’ with its scanned symbols of femininity transformed and integrated into Acne Studios’ signature style.
Jebb’s symbols, reminiscent of traditional feminine dress codes like red stilettos and false eyelashes, were depicted across various pieces, revealing the brand’s experimental approach to fabrics and design. Notably, the collection exhibited a fascination with denim, demonstrated through innovative pieces like collarless jackets and buckled bottoms, echoing the theme of ‘unfinished construction’ that Johansson is passionate about.
While the essence of the collection was rooted in industrial aesthetic and the transformation of denim, the garments themselves were a tapestry of contrasting textures and weights. Pieces treated with plaster contrasted with delicate silks and airy fabrics. The color palette was a mix of cement tones, vivid blues, greens, and reds, interspersed with pastel shades, lending each piece a distinctive appeal.
The silhouettes, both floating and sculptural, conveyed a sense of spontaneity and speed, epitomizing the theme of an ‘unfinished, work-in-progress’ aesthetic. Skirts seemed to levitate, monochrome looks were paired with exaggerated sleeves, and garments carried an essence of being hastily put together, adding to the collection’s raw appeal.
The collection played with the transparency of fabrics, layering them to both reveal and conceal. Accessories were minimalistic yet impactful, featuring items like knee-high transparent socks and oversized sunglasses in silver and black. Bags included the Multipocket in glossy red, icy blue, and shiny brown leather, referencing tool belts and vintage camera bags.
In footwear, the collection revolved around the stiletto pump, an exaggerated version of the court shoe, playing a central role in the collection’s inspiration and show. Meanwhile, a studded glossy strappy wedge shoe added a touch of robust elegance.
In essence, the Spring/Summer 2024 collection by Acne Studios was a symphony of playful futurism and elevated industrial chic, blurring gender lines and embracing a modern, deconstructed aesthetic. The intersection of sensuality, raw materials, and avant-garde elegance made the collection a thrilling encounter for its audience, positioning the brand at the forefront of fashion innovation.
