“It’s a story of joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words – words in artworks, words in pictures, words in spaces, just words. A story of richness and lust/desire, of red but also blue and green, of flash, of spontaneity, of light, of a party at the first light of day, it’s an unhidden story, one that’s proud, it is manifest and not taboo although it might look like it should be, it is completely free and filled with euphoria. It is a story of fabulous, diverse people; it’s Getty images of cool people of all ages, and it’s inclusive as in everyone is welcomed. It’s a story of movies, of my beloved Italy, of intellectuals and travels around the world but still feeling at home wherever you are. A story of objects – shiny, tactile and cold to the touch but warm to the heart and soul, these are desirable to collect, not for a museum but to enrich everyday life. It’s a story of music and nights out, of sweat, dancing, and singing. It’s a story of family, of kissing, lots and lots of kisses. It’s a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy.” — Sabato De Sarno.
On September 22, a refreshing transformation graced the Gucci brand, as Sabato De Sarno unveiled his inaugural spring 2024 collection for the renowned Italian label, marking his first comprehensive showcase since his induction in January 2023. This display of fashion innovation was encapsulated within a room painted in radiant red, transitioning to obscurity as the lights dimmed. Illuminated by the runway’s radiant pathway, the models, effusing a youthful and delicate aura, manifested De Sarno’s vision with every step.
Sabato De Sarno, with his extensive experience gleaned from notable brands like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and a significant 13-year stint at Valentino, markedly deviated from the extravagant and intense aesthetics characteristic of his predecessor, Alessandro Michele. The collection, named “Ancora,” embraced subtlety and simplicity, showcasing a reimagined version of everyday essentials and minimalist suiting, replete with redefined suits, elevated white tees, dramatic white dresses, and most prominently, blazers coupled with shorts, projecting a spotlight on the minimal short suit trend.
The collection boasted a diverse range, from embossed monogram dresses and open oversized vests to shimmering crystal bras and cohesive monogram dress and bag sets, reflecting De Sarno’s meticulous attention to detail and precision. The unbuttoned blazers and suit jackets, worn with no shirts beneath, added an editorial touch to the everyday ensemble, blending simplicity with a dash of sophistication. Despite the seemingly fundamental approach to the collection, the designer managed to incorporate elements that cater to diverse preferences, demonstrating versatility in his designs, incorporating muted elegance with elements like stiff leather jackets and sheer white tops.
De Sarno’s debut heralds a promising future for the brand’s accessory line, featuring models adorned with bold gold jewelry and sporting distinctive bags, accentuating the brand’s signature aesthetics. The diverse collection, featuring items from sparkling tunics to patent leather stripes, signifies De Sarno’s progressive evolution of the house’s codes, hinting at the potential unfolding of his unique narrative and design philosophy, while still resonating with fans of the Michele era Gucci, marrying tradition with innovation.