By Sirena Kuo
Peter Hawkings, the longtime deputy of Tom Ford and creative director since 2023, has exited the luxury brand following its acquisition by Estée Lauder and Zegna. Estée Lauder Companies announced Hawkings’ departure and mentioned that a successor would be named soon.
The Spring-Summer 2025 collection will be showcased in Tom Ford’s Milan showroom in September instead of on the runway. Hawkings, who played a crucial role in establishing Tom Ford Menswear in 2006, took over the brand’s creative direction after Ford’s $2.8 billion sale to Estée Lauder.
Hawkings’ debut collection last September paid homage to Ford’s iconic Gucci era, while his second collection in March featured military-inspired outerwear. Despite Hawkings’ sharp execution and continuation of Tom Ford’s sleek style, some critics felt his designs were too safe. The luxury brand, currently facing a slowdown in demand, relies heavily on its fragrance and eyewear licenses, with apparel sales lagging. Zegna Group, which has worked closely with Hawkings for years, plans to expand Tom Ford’s store count and relaunch womenswear with a focus on handbags.
However, the designer’s departure could introduce uncertainty into Zegna Group’s growth strategy, particularly in light of weak trends among Chinese consumers. More details about Hawkings’ exit are expected during Zegna’s upcoming conference call for its first-half results.
