Acne Studios‘ 2024 Collection unveils itself amidst the industrial yet innovative ambiance set by Villu Jaanisoo‘s recycled tyre sculptures, “Chairs in Rubber.” This intriguing setting in Paris serves as a prelude to a collection that intertwines the essence of toughness with human form, through a narrative deeply embedded in leather and denim. The collaboration with Jaanisoo not only emphasizes the brand’s commitment to environmental consciousness but also mirrors the collection’s ethos of recontextualization and resilience.
Under the creative direction of Jonny Johansson, Acne Studios reimagines its foundational elements, presenting a vision of the future where denim and leather are not just materials but symbols of a raw, mechanical edge. This season, the label constructs a persona of a “fast woman,” sculpted and futuristic, challenging traditional womenswear archetypes with a blend of elevated femininity and a distinct tough attitude. The collection sees classic pieces such as faux fur, ladylike handbags, and the timeless black dress, all reinterpreted with a twist that speaks to the label’s innovative spirit.
Johansson’s affinity for leather and denim, tracing back to one of Acne Studios’ initial collections, is evident in his latest offering. He views these materials as transcending genres and subcultures, embodying a sense of empowerment and protection akin to armor. This perspective is masterfully translated into pieces that balance subcultural influences with a modern sophistication, showcasing denim and leather in forms that feel both familiar and entirely new.
The color palette of the collection is severe yet polished, dominated by black and dark brown, with strategic pops of flame orange, green, and blue emerging from prints, adding a vibrant contrast to the otherwise neutral tones. The silhouettes play with proportions, presenting a mix of stretched and shrunken forms that challenge the conventional. Shearling pieces are oversized and wild, hinting at a sense of untamed beauty, while the exploration into tailoring results in sharp, lean lines that redefine elegance.
Perhaps the most striking elements are the “Lampshade” dresses, which, with their mesh and boning, push the boundaries of traditional design by inverting the concept of the couture dress inside out. This innovative approach extends to ribbed Henley jerseys, traditionally seen as undergarments, now reimagined as outerwear, further emphasizing the collection’s theme of transformation and recontextualization.
Acne Studios’ 2024 Collection stands as a testament to the brand’s enduring ability to merge the rugged with the refined, the past with the future, creating a narrative that is as compelling as it is wearable. In this collection, Johansson not only pays homage to the brand’s roots but also propels it forward, crafting a vision of the future that is undeniably Acne Studios: cool, confident, and ceaselessly creative.
