COACH Spring Summer 2023

Coach debuted Stuart Vevers’ Spring 2023 collection with a runway show in New York City. Set on a dreamlike New York City pier, the show explored Coach’s American heritage through the lens of fluidity and circularity, celebrating the beauty of imperfection and pieces designed with multiple lives in mind.

The next chapter of Coach Creative Director Stuart Vevers’ exploration of American heritage, Spring 2023 introduces an expressive view of luxury in which circularity, heritage and pop culture combine to propose a new value proposition for fashion and luxury. The collection introduced ready-to-wear and bags crafted of repurposed leather jackets and football leather, remade into one-of-a-kind pieces, as well as charmingly love-worn hand-knit fisherman’s sweaters and distressed denim workwear. To underscore the collection’s theme of remixed references to the past, these pieces were juxtaposed with short gingham dresses, finished with black lace, and overdyed varsity sweaters—Americana subverted with attitude. In addition, the house introduced new imaginations of its Tabby bag, seen for the first time on the runway, in a messenger style and in a colorful jelly material, a nod to the beachy undercurrent of the collection.

As part of the presentation, the house also unveiled multi-platinum artist, singer and songwriter Lil Nas X as a new global ambassador for Coach in his first-ever runway appearance. The first ambassador to be announced within the house’s new chapter of Expressive Luxury and its vision of inspiring confidence in the next generation, Lil Nas X will bring to life the house’s legacy of innovation and courageous self-expression through campaigns, collections and more—with his first campaign for the house to be revealed next month.

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“With Spring, I wanted to evolve notions of luxury that place an emphasis on perfection,” said Vevers. “Inspired by the next generation’s fluid approach to fashion, the collection celebrates pieces that become more beautiful the more they are worn and loved, and references to the past rediscovered in the present. To tell this story on the runway, I imagined a Coach world inspired by New York City’s piers, a place with a unique cultural legacy, and a unique feeling of possibility. I was also thrilled to partner with Lil Nas X on his first runway show as part of our presentation—he is the epitome of the next generation’s inspiring approach to self-expression.”

“It was such a fun experience being part of the Coach show and walking on my first runway ever,” said Lil Nas X. “I’m super excited to make my debut as a face of Coach, a fashion house that believes in a lot of the same things as me. I can’t wait to share all of the other amazing things I’ve been working on with Stuart and his team very soon.”

Held at the Park Avenue Armory, the runway presentation took place on an imagined, dream-like pier inspired by the evocative histories of the piers of New York City as sites of creativity and found communities. The show opened with choreographed vignettes wherein characters of the Coach pier pass through the space and interact through moments of happenstance. Set at sunrise to convey a feeling of romance and possibility, the imagined Coach world evoked a sense of escapism grounded in the energy of the city, like New York’s piers and beaches.

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