On a luminous afternoon in Brooklyn, under the creative auspices of Peter Do, Helmut Lang unveiled its Fall/Winter 2024 collection—an assembly that danced on the delicate line between protection and projection. In this, his second runway presentation as the brand’s creative director, Do proffered a thesis on the psychology of dress, a question of “Protection or projection?” that delved into the essence of our sartorial choices.
Helmut Lang, a name synonymous with the avant-garde, continues to redefine the parameters of winter wear. The Fall Winter 2024 collection was a testament to serious winter armament, featuring an array of oversized puffers, substantial fur coats, incisively tailored blazers, and balaclava-style hoodies that melded seamlessly with unconventional knitwear and translucent ensembles. Footwear, too, played a pivotal role, with tonal black Samba-like sneakers and sharply pointed pumps accompanying padded shoulder bags and rectangular handbags. The collection’s aesthetic was further defined by a restrained color palette—dominated by black, with touches of white, brown, and a vibrant splash of orange—and adorned with plaid prints, sparkly embellishments, and zippers, crafting silhouettes that speak volumes of our interaction with the world around us.
The presentation, set against the capitalist backdrop of the former Williamsburg Savings Bank, transformed into a space of ethereal beauty, reflected Do’s contemplative approach to design. This juxtaposition of sheer and solid across numerous looks, the interplay of skin against rigid color-blocking, and the strategic cut-outs in high-neck knitted tops revealed a nuanced exploration of confidence as expressed through clothing. The collection’s monochromatic grey skirt worn over trousers, green military-style shirting against statement red, and sleeveless leather tops with rib detailing mirrored the practical adaptations we make to our attire, highlighting a utilitarian blend at the heart of the Helmut Lang ethos.
Peter Do’s sophomore collection was not merely a line of clothing; it was an introspective journey into how lifestyle influences fashion, a narrative that unpacked the differing ways we exhibit confidence through our dress. The 50 looks presented offered a thoughtful balance between sensuality and structure, a hallmark of Do’s design philosophy and a nod to the legacy of the Helmut Lang label.
This collection, with its emphasis on protection versus projection, armor versus adornment, and the seamless blending of art with armor, reiterates the fundamental truth that the way we dress is indeed the way we equip and protect ourselves, defining our stance against the world’s vicissitudes.
In this era of fashion, Peter Do’s Helmut Lang stands as a beacon of thoughtfulness, challenging us to reconsider our sartorial choices, not just as a matter of aesthetics, but as a profound reflection of our lifestyle and psyche. The FW24 collection, with its blend of protection and projection, is a compelling narrative of how we carve our identities in the fabric of society, a narrative that continues to resonate deeply within the fashion community.
