Browne calls the range “a mini couture collection,” and its precise cuts back up the claim.
Fresh from a talked-about turn at the Met Gala, Thom Browne presents his Pre-Fall 2025 menswear line as a crisp exercise in tailoring taken off its hinges. Familiar codes—shrunken jackets, grosgrain tabs, knife-sharp pleats—sit beside garments that tilt the proportions just far enough to feel disarming without losing precision.
Silhouettes are the first tell. Shoulders either jut like cornices or round into near-orbital curves, giving each look a pronounced upper frame. Below, trousers toggle between narrow, ankle-baring cuts and ample, ballooning volumes. Skirts and dresses—yes, in the menswear look book—arrive with pannier-style folds and surprise pleats that push fabric outward in measured relief.
“It’s almost like a mini couture collection,” Browne told Vogue, framing the range as a test ground for technique. “The most important thing is for people to see that the collection and the business are evolving in the strongest way—to not take away from what people have always appreciated about my collections.”
That message rings loud in a mesh basketball jersey marked with the No. 65, a nod to Browne’s birth year and to the gym-class bravado he likes to rewire. “I really feel like the tailoring could be sportswear as much as the sportswear can be tailoring,” he said, underscoring the jersey’s place amid suiting cut from the same disciplined cloth.
Softer textures enter through a suede denim jacket and a mohair tweed work shirt, both tailored with Browne’s usual straight-back stance yet offering a gentler surface. Together with the jersey, they show how the label can flex material language while keeping the silhouette strict.
Pre-Fall 2025 is not an about-face; it is a measured extension of Browne’s long game—one that reveres the suit even as it pulls the garment apart for fresh readings. The result lands where the designer prefers to operate: between ritual and play, precision and surprise.
