Maria Grazia Chiuri, the innovative creative director behind Dior‘s women’s lines, unveiled a groundbreaking Spring Summer 2024 collection that embodies a harmonious blend of past and future, showcasing the present’s multifaceted essence. The collection was premiered on the inaugural day of Paris Fashion Week, in the pulsating core of Paris.
Chiuri’s inspiration was rooted in a contemplative exploration of the modern zeitgeist, leading her to question and redefine femininity and feminism in the current socio-cultural context. Her creations manifest her belief in fashion’s potential to empower women by embracing their unique identities and fostering self-expression, challenging the traditional, predominantly masculine norms and systems.
Her interests revolve around unconventional female figures from history, like witches, who symbolize the wisdom and reverence of the maternal deity and are considered the stewards of nature’s and plants’ secrets. These characters have imbibed Chiuri’s designs with a medieval aesthetic and architectural outlines, featuring masculine jackets and fabrics that reminisce the in-depth, meticulous work of Italian artist Alberto Burri.
The collection portrays a subtle palette, including shades of ash and chamomile, hinting at elusive love potions. It transforms Dior’s emblematic Mille-fleurs into a contrasting dark floral pattern, reminiscent of an X-ray, with themes of moons, suns, medicinal herbs, and mystical creatures interwoven with embroideries, depicting the changing seasons and diverse phases of life.
In this collection, knitwear emerged as a prominent feature, embracing and accentuating the body’s contours, symbolizing warmth and allure without restriction. A metallic sweater with a light allure subtly reflects a semblance to chainmail.
The presentation itself was enveloped in the revolutionary ‘NOT HER’ art piece by Elena Bellantoni, a monumental and encompassing digital installation that challenges clichéd portrayals of women, depicting a series of images from antiquated sexist advertisements with corresponding texts that juxtapose and critically rectify the original messages.
The collection’s overall vibe resonated with a sober elegance. Dior’s famed tailoring was perceived in a softer, more relaxed avatar, paired with slouchy trousers, shirts, and pleated skirts. The details were unusually raw-edged and holed, with leather meticulously crafted into glazed and cracked jackets and blouses, accompanied by a variety of matching gloves.
Sportswear elements were highlighted through denim adorned with burn-like outlines, strapped capes, and drawstring pleating with toggle fastenings. Footwear resonated with the elegance of the ballerina silhouette, complemented by low heels, and delicately frayed bows and pearls.
This collection epitomizes Chiuri’s vision, reinforcing the symbiotic relation between body and attire, contextualized in the evolving timeline, transcending the transient notions of a single day or nostalgia. It stands as a testament to Dior’s commitment to challenging stereotypes and empowering women by offering them sartorial expressions that are timeless and resonant with their individual identities.
