By Alexei Key
Jonathan Anderson has a knack for shaking up the fashion world, and his latest LOEWE Spring 2025 show was no exception. In a minimalist space anchored by a tiny bird sculpture by Tracey Emin, the atmosphere was both intimate and charged. Front-row guests like Ayo Edebiri, Meg Ryan, Pieter Mulier, and Pharrell Williams gathered to witness what Anderson had up his sleeve this season.
The show opened with a model wearing a cloud-like white dress printed with gray florals, paired with upside-down aviator sunglasses. It set the tone for a collection that played with proportions and challenged traditional silhouettes. Anderson reimagined the hoop skirt, giving it a modern twist with sheer fabrics and delicate cages. Hems were weighted with fine chains, allowing the silk georgette to float and move as if it were hovering. “The fabric is like floating off the garment. So you have the structure, but then you have this idea that something is in movement,” Anderson explained after the show. “So you get this body moving, or the body looking like it’s hovering somehow.”
His inspiration came from vintage American crinoline sets he stumbled upon during a thrift shop dive. “They were so grotesque and ugly in terms of make that they looked like armor, nearly. And I was like, ‘Well, what happens if you reduce it down to a thread line?'” The result was nothing short of magical.
The collection also featured swingy leather jackets with flared hems, stiff sequin mini dresses in cobalt blue, and blazers with extra-long sleeves that scrunched and bunched in unexpected ways. Graphic T-shirts got an artistic update with printed feathers featuring classical music and Impressionist art motifs—a fresh take on the classic band tee.
Accessories were both practical and stylish. Models wore flats like boat shoes, oxfords, and high-top sneakers called Ballet Runners. Anderson introduced new iterations of the beloved Puzzle bag and debuted a trapezoidal style named the Madrid. It’s clear he’s thinking about how his designs fit into daily life without sacrificing creativity.
Throughout the show, there was a sense of “radical reduction,” as Anderson put it. “What happens when one takes all the noise away?” The answer was a collection that felt both stripped down and richly imaginative, focusing on the lines and shapes that define clothing.
Anderson’s attention to detail was evident in every piece. From leather shirts and coats with wired hems that splayed out, to cropped tank tops paired with relaxed trousers, he showed how tweaking small elements can change the whole attitude of an outfit. “It’s about tweaking the attitude,” he said, considering these adjustments part of the “psychology of branding.”
LOEWE continues to grow under Anderson’s direction, not just in design but also in cultural relevance. Recent collaborations with artists and a focus on sustainability have positioned the brand as a leader in innovative fashion.
In a season where many designers are revisiting classics like the tutu, Anderson offers an alternative with his reimagined hoop skirts and bold silhouettes. It’s a reminder that fashion doesn’t have to be loud to make a statement. Sometimes, simplicity speaks volumes.
