By Alexei Key
On a crisp Friday in late September, ISSEY MIYAKE presented its Spring/Summer 2025 collection at the tranquil Parc Floral de Paris. Titled “The Beauty of Paper,” the collection delved into the humble material we often overlook—paper, including traditional Japanese washi—to explore its textures and the feelings it evokes. The central question was simple yet profound: What is it about paper that puts us at ease?
This curiosity led the design team on a journey through the history and craftsmanship of paper-making. The outcome was a range of garments that honored artisanal techniques, translating the poetry and timeless qualities of paper into modern fashion that resonates with our primal past.
In a clever twist, the seating at the show was made from compressed sheets of paper—the byproduct of ISSEY MIYAKE’s signature pleating technology. These paper cylinders, cut to serve as stools, featured marbled cross-sections resembling tree rings, subtly nodding to the passage of time.
One highlight was the EAU series, inspired by water and the concept of a single piece of cloth. Soft, transparent fabrics were fastened internally to create elegant draping. The way the lustrous material moved mimicked flowing water, adding a fluid dynamism to the pieces.
The collection also paid homage to kamiko—traditional garments made from washi paper. Crafted from 100% fine hemp fibers, these pieces were initially prototypes but evolved into a statement of intent: to keep a thousand-year-old Japanese craft alive through contemporary design.
FOLD TO FORM featured three-dimensional designs reminiscent of origami. Utilizing a new washi fabric blended with rayon-silk and stretch yarns, the garments offered lightweight stretchability, allowing angular silhouettes to fit comfortably to the body.
EASE AND EASED mirrored the kamiko designs but used woven fabrics with hemp yarn in the warp and a mohair-wool blend in the weft. The subtle color variations added warmth and depth, while the silhouettes embraced the natural drape of the fabric—light, airy, and capable of lying flat like paper.
HEMPEN was a nod to ancient times, using 100% hemp, a material historically vital for paper and clothing. The fabric was dyed and coated to meet modern needs without losing its natural lightness and comfort.
In a playful exploration of form, WEAR AND WORN featured garments knitted seamlessly together. This design allowed wearers to experiment—slipping into either piece or reversing them for different looks. Made from cotton-polyester yarn, the pieces were light and soft to the touch.
PRESSED FLORA brought delicate prints of peonies, ranunculus, and asparagus leaves to life. The prints captured the subtle changes that occur when pressing fresh flowers. The technique introduced small wrinkles, emphasizing the fragility of both the flowers and the fabric.
CLOTH AND CORD embraced a raw aesthetic, using whole pieces of fabric and cotton cord ties to highlight craftsmanship. Linen and stretch yarns created a flexible, lightweight texture, with gathered fabric and cords adding relaxed draping to the silhouettes.
SHADE AND SHADED played with contrasts, featuring sheer fabrics folded diagonally and partially pleated. The interplay between transparency and sharp pleats resulted in pieces that were both structured and sensuous.
Finally, the PAPER BAG series drew inspiration from everyday paper bags. By pressing fabrics woven with washi slivers, the bags achieved the texture and lightness of paper, combined with the durability needed for daily use.
Since the passing of its founder in 2022, ISSEY MIYAKE has continued to push boundaries in fabric innovation and design. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a testament to the brand’s dedication to merging tradition with modernity, honoring craftsmanship while staying firmly rooted in the present.
