By Alexei Key
Chanel‘s return to the Grand Palais for its Spring-Summer 2025 collection felt like a homecoming. With the main entrance now proudly bearing Gabrielle Chanel‘s name, the stage was set under the iconic glass roof of the Nave—a space that mirrored both grandeur and intimacy.
At the heart of this luminous cathedral stood a monumental open birdcage, echoing a cherished keepsake given to Gabrielle Chanel by one of her seamstresses. This oversized aviary wasn’t just a backdrop; it symbolized freedom and the whimsical allure of flight. Seating arranged like a tranquil garden invited guests to breathe and dream.
As the show unfolded, models seemed to float down the runway in pieces that embodied ethereal liberty. Chiffon capes, slit skirts, and embroidered sheer shirt dresses moved with airy grace. Wide-legged trousers flowed effortlessly, while sequined and fringed jeans added a touch of sparkle. Trench coats adorned with multicolored feather prints reinforced the theme of soaring freedom.
The collection paid tribute to women who, like Gabrielle herself, broke free from societal constraints. Inspirations drew from the likes of Colette, the garçonne movement of the Roaring Twenties, and pioneering aviatrixes who challenged norms. Aviator jackets with Peter Pan collars, sleek flight suits in black or white, and suits with subtle tie-shaped inserts spoke to this spirit. Uniform dresses with crisp white collars, ensembles in pink or blue tweed, pastel knits, and black skirts echoing the venue’s architecture all contributed to a narrative of liberation.
Chanel revisited its iconic codes—the suit, the little black dress, tweed, jersey, the quilted bag, and two-tone shoes—infusing them with the hues of day, night, and the ever-changing sky. It was a journey that soared, perfectly at home in the Nave of the Grand Palais.
Under the creative direction of Virginie Viard, Chanel continues to honor its storied legacy while embracing the now. The brand remains a beacon of timeless elegance blended with contemporary flair, resonating with those who value both tradition and innovation.
