Celebrating McQueen: The Rebel Force Fashion Can’t Forget

Alexander McQueen took his final bow on February 11, 2010, the day before his mother’s funeral, leaving the fashion world reeling. Growing up in London’s East End as the youngest of six, he left school at fifteen to apprentice with tailor Cornelius O’Callaghan, then honed his craft at Red or Dead. By 1989, he had bet on himself, flying to Milan with no plan or funds. Within days, he was working under Romeo Gigli, and after being asked to rework one jacket multiple times, he famously stitched “Fuck Romeo” into the lining.

Photo: Nick Waplington

He eventually returned to London to study under Bobby Hillson at Central Saint Martins, with tuition covered by an aunt. On March 16, 1992, he introduced his graduation collection “Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims,” laying down a new template for ready-to-wear as performance and commentary. The industry took notice, including Bernard Arnault, who brought him to Givenchy in 1997. Overnight, McQueen went from outsider to the head of a revered French house. In Paris, he stayed true to himself, blending old-guard elegance with a streak of rebellion. His first couture outing, “Search for the Golden Fleece,” came together in a few months and played with white and gold references that echoed Givenchy’s heritage while amplifying it with his signature attitude.

Givenchy Haute Couture by Alexander McQueen Fall 1999

His ready-to-wear continued pushing boundaries, especially Spring/Summer 1999’s “N.13.,” where Shalom Harlow stood on a rotating platform as robotic arms sprayed her dress with black and yellow paint. It was a raw meeting of technology and craftsmanship, a hallmark of McQueen’s approach. Around the same time, he teamed with photographer Nick Knight for images that distorted reality, capturing fashion as surreal art.

Though known for shocking moments, McQueen wasn’t all darkness. His work carried romance and seduction, culminating in his final fully realized show for Spring Summer 2010, “Plato’s Atlantis,” which was live-streamed for the first time in fashion history and introduced Lady Gaga’s “Bad Romance.” The show also used robots to film the event, proving McQueen’s fascination with innovation never waned.

Alexander McQueen Spring 2010, “Plato’s Atlantis”

Fifteen years after his passing, his influence resonates in everything from runway spectacle to pop culture references. Even as Sarah Burton announced her departure from the brand in 2023, the house remains a vital force. McQueen’s legacy thrives on a spirit that saw beauty in risk, an unfiltered curiosity about the boundaries of design, and an unwavering personal stamp. He stitched his own truth into every piece, and that authenticity still powers the label that bears his name.

Photo: Salons Galahad