Alaïa’s Fall 2025 show landed on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule for the first time. After staging the previous show at New York’s Guggenheim, the brand returned to its Paris atelier, turning the runway into a gallery of living sculpture. On social media, Pieter Mulier referred to the season as “Modern Venus,” tapping into the goddess’s enduring resonance for beauty and strength. This vision played out through designs that balanced structure, movement, and the house’s signature devotion to the female form.
“Concealed and revealed, framing faces like a portrait of a woman, a portrait of beauty,” read the brand’s press release, describing streamlined hoods that circled the models’ heads. Some skirts were engineered with unique internal frameworks, suggesting a weightless quality and hinting at the label’s commitment to architectural expression. Mulier also introduced volumetric jackets recalling a previous Charles James–inspired silhouette, now woven with thick, tube-like forms. A series of sea-urchin–textured flourishes added another layer of dimension, appearing on footwear and along select garment edges.
“A round boudine around the head worn with a pleated skirt,” as Alaïa described on Instagram, delivered a striking shape that felt protective and ornamental at once. Metal tubing wove through certain looks—“act like armor to shield,” according to the house—offering a subtle tension between body-con silhouettes and sculptural accents. Dutch artist Mark Manders showcased bronze works on the set, reflecting the brand’s global outlook and drawing a link to founder Azzedine Alaïa’s Tunisian heritage.
To mark the occasion, Alaïa partnered with director Shayne Laverdiere on a short film set to debut March 5, promising an inside look at the creative process behind each piece. Mulier, who joined Alaïa in 2021 after working alongside Raf Simons, continues to honor the late Azzedine’s inventive spirit. Under Richemont’s ownership, the house remains fearless, building on an aesthetic that merges craftsmanship, cultural references, and modern lines. This season’s collection—rooted in transformation, mythology, and artistry—proves that Alaïa thrives on shaping new narratives while holding tight to its timeless DNA.
