Carolina Herrera’s Pre-Fall 2025 steps into a time warp. Wes Gordon, still riding the momentum of recent seasons that have seen the house loosen its collar for a younger audience, looked to a trove of 1950s dolls collected by his mother, Diane. Each piece here suggests the care of a hand-stitched skirt or a pressed little jacket, only recast in today’s language.
This lineup puts shape at the forefront. Waists are pulled in; shoulders stand firm. A cotton floral cloque suit offers a trim formality, while a scarlet-red strapless jumpsuit switches gears, serving something immediate and fresh. Textile choices nod to the tactile—a wool glen-plaid here, a stretch jersey there—mimicking the feel of actual doll clothes. The result isn’t twee but grounded, controlled. Even the brand’s signature florals, peonies in silk organza, feel considered rather than ornamental.
There’s also a sense of easing into evening that doesn’t jolt you out of daytime mode. Light tulle and silk faille gowns land with a whisper, no forced drama, just the right note of after-dark attitude. Embellishments—crystal bows, oversize buttons—read playful, not fussy. It’s a subtle reminder that this house, known for its polished backbone, isn’t afraid to flirt with scale or experiment with proportion. After all, what’s a doll’s wardrobe without a bit of fantasy?
Recent moves by the brand—fresh off a well-received Spring 2024 show in New York—signal a consistent push to meet the present while maintaining its recognizable handwriting. With this Pre-Fall outing, Gordon keeps the rhythm going: taking a moment from the past, rearranging it, and presenting it back to us in a way that feels alive right now.
Creative Director: Wes Gordon
Styling: Marie Chaix
Photography: Brianna Capozzi
Casting: Rachel Chandler
Makeup: Sil Bruinsma
Hair: Rolando Beauchamp
