Calvin Klein’s latest runway had all the crisp technicalities in place: the show venue radiated a sleek environment, and the casting drew enough star power to land prime social media coverage. Yet, the clothes themselves—this was the brand’s official return to the New York schedule—left an odd emptiness where the brand’s legendary sensual energy once thrived.
Under the new design direction, the collection felt too safe. For a label built on provocative campaigns this safe approach was disappointing. There was a faint flicker of the original Calvin Klein DNA, but that momentum never roared to life. The clothes seemed lost between the influencer orbit and a desire to reclaim minimalism, ultimately satisfying neither.
The most striking pieces—like a textured outerwear moment in a warm brown—hinted at a promising direction, but they were quickly overshadowed by items that felt indistinguishable from generic off-the-rack basics. Past attempts under Raf Simons brought more creativity to the table, even if they didn’t always align with mainstream expectations.
Remember when Calvin Klein was synonymous with effortless seduction? This new collection barely flirted with that notion—the emotional pull was gone. Somewhere in the strategy shift from high-voltage minimalism to mass-appeal marketing, the house’s once-sensual aura drained away.
The result is a refined package, sure, but it’s missing the potency, the thrill, the unabashed confidence that used to define the name.
For a first outing under new creative leadership, one could argue this was a decent effort. But when we talk about Calvin Klein—an emblem of American cool—‘fine’ is hardly enough. That intangible spark, that sense of daring and sleek allure, is what made the label iconic. Until the team dares to truly reclaim that spirit, we’re left with something reminiscent of a fleeting social media drop rather than an unforgettable runway experience.
