Chanel’s Spring 2025 Couture show at the Grand Palais opened with a stark white moment before unraveling a full-spectrum narrative. The runway, shaped like the brand’s signature double C, hinted at infinite possibilities—a nod to Gabrielle Chanel’s radical take on black and her lesser-known devotion to color. From dawn-inspired silks and sunshine tweeds to feathery pastels and sequined evening looks, the House embraced a day-to-night cycle that moved seamlessly through lilac, orange-pink, vibrant purple, and deep midnight blue.
Willo Perron’s set design referenced an artist’s color wheel, mirrored in the clothing’s progression from early morning hues to saturated, after-hours tones. Composer Gustave Rudman wrote an original score with Michel Gaubert, underscoring each shift in the palette. Embroidered chiffon mimicked woven tweed, tiny feathers appeared on slipdresses, and translucent petals decorated watercolor-print trouser suits. Strappy shoes in sky blue, violet, and white kept each look playful yet polished.
Tweed—an enduring symbol of Chanel’s heritage—was updated with brilliant satin linings in bold shades and elaborate braids. Short hemlines with frothy underskirts introduced a youthful edge, while elongated trains gave evening gowns a weightless drama. The House’s storied atelier delivered intricate pleats, airy layers, and painted lace illusions. Jewelry-like buttons turned into miniature suns and moons, and black velvet belts saluted Chanel’s timeless affection for black.
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As it marks 110 years of haute couture, Chanel remains under the creative direction of Virginie Viard and continues to expand globally, most recently with a major push in Asia that includes a new flagship in Seoul. The lineup felt like a statement of pure expertise and fresh energy, underscoring Gabrielle Chanel’s original vision that color and comfort could coexist with an edge. As she once said, “Comfort has forms. Love has colors.” That sentiment still resonates, amplified by new shapes, new hues, and a sense of modern enchantment.
