Hermès’s Fall 2025 show in Paris offered an intriguing mix of raw earthiness and elevated design, starting well before a single look emerged. The atmosphere felt intimate yet electric, an effect amplified by a moody soundtrack that pulsed through the cavernous setting.
When the models finally appeared, they moved gliding across the textured runway as if intent on reaching their next destination. Leather, in all its forms, anchored the collection—no surprise for a house that built its legacy on equestrian craftsmanship. Creative director Nadège Vanhée made reference to Hermès’s heritage in subtle ways, presenting structured trousers, riding boots, and bomber jackets that balanced tradition with modern ease.
Still, it was anything but a one-note affair. A striking palette of inky black, ash gray, and stormy charcoal was offset by jolts of vibrant green and creamy taupe. The silhouettes ranged from fluid high-waisted pants to sharp quilted bombers, all carefully tailored yet unfussy. Tactile textures—quilted finishes, glossy skins, and rich wool—echoed the label’s emphasis on practicality without sacrificing style. The show notes underscored this duality: “Outsides wrought for structure, density, and warmth,” they stated. “Insides drawn with soft, suspenseful contours and enveloping textures.”
In many ways, Vanhée seemed determined to create the fashion equivalent of an Hermès bag—pieces meant to live forever, not just for a single season. She pulled from menswear codes and classic sports references, distilling them into silhouettes that felt refined but ready for the real world. Even the color choices—deep browns, steel grays, and pops of green—spoke to an intent to fuse functionality with sophistication.
Touches of at-home styling also made the runway feel personal. Chunky knits casually tied at the neck became a statement, while sleeveless cashmere tops were paired with matching long gloves, a twist on the traditional twinset. Coats unzipped into blankets, perfect for an impromptu escape. There were hidden zippers in bodycon dresses, too, offering multiple ways to wear a single piece. These moments of transformation showed Vanhée’s playful side, proving that luxury can surprise without being flashy.
Though the overarching vibe was streamlined, flashes of drama surfaced—like a glossy lambskin shirt paired with matching trousers, or lime-green leather spliced into a tailored trench. The equestrian thread, which Hermès is known for, felt especially strong with references to saddle flaps and harness-like details that cinched waists. Practical yet powerful outerwear, from shearling jackets to elongated wool dusters, served as a reminder of the label’s roots in craft and utility.
