Yohji Yamamoto returned to the gilded halls of Paris’s Hôtel de Ville for his Fall 2025 show. Cozy sweaters with chimney-high necklines, a slick raincoat, and a classic leather jacket. Yamamoto quickly flipped expectations by slicing into those same pieces, turning them into fluid layers secured with metal rings, snaps, and deft lacing. One coat’s oversized cowl revealed a leather panel at the shoulder, while another featured curved seams that played off the contrast between wool and leather.
Hints of purple—splashed on coats, strapped boots, and quilted linings—offered a stark break from his favored black. One design used a medley of fabric remnants connected by hoops, creating an on-the-go vibe that felt playful yet methodical. Midway through, multi-hued yarns appeared in textured knitwear, injecting a subtle shot of color in a sea of noir. In a final twist, pairs of models strolled out in black coats, only to invert them and show off rich, violet quilting. It was a wordless testament to Yamamoto’s fascination with transformation—and a reminder of why, 44 years after his first Paris showing, he’s still rewriting the rules of silhouette and structure.
Following recent expansions of his core line, including ongoing creative explorations under his Y-3 collaboration with Adidas, Yamamoto remains at the helm, proving that deconstruction and reconstruction aren’t just techniques but a mindset. There was no grand finale—no bow, no theatrics—just a quiet display of how one piece of fabric can morph into something else entirely, reminding us that constant reinvention is part of his DNA.
