Lemaire’s Fall/Winter 2025 show in Paris offered a fresh spin on the label’s trademark understatement, this time laced with a sharper edge. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran have built a house style of hushed luxury that relies on flowing silhouettes, subtle textures, and refined craftsmanship. But for this season, they turned up the dial, introducing marked shoulders, snugly belted waists, and strong leather pieces that felt decidedly more confident.
Shapely coats appeared next to balloon skirts, while roomy workwear-inspired jackets collided with ‘70s-tinged suiting. The result was a lineup that managed to stay true to Lemaire’s low-key appeal while pushing it forward. Proportions elongated the body, with asymmetric pockets and off-kilter hemlines suggesting a wearer in motion. And in a modern twist on accessorizing, the label collaborated with Vienna-based design workshop Carl Auböck to transform ordinary objects—magnifying glasses, pens, even a tiny brush—into jewelry that read like personal totems.
There was still plenty of that Lemaire fluidity: knit dresses with built-in balaclavas offered practical comfort, while slim leather belts held the looks together without fuss. The color story skewed toward earthy neutrals—black, beige, deep brown—punctuated by bursts of vermillion, cobalt, and lavender. One cocoa-bean shaped bag, referencing the tea Lemaire serves pre-show, gave a playful nod to Tran’s past travels in Mexico, a detail she once described in an interview.
Though the collection embraced a purposeful simplicity, it was by no means flat. Coats cut to reveal sharp necklines, pockets placed just so, and mindful layers that made texture the star. As classic tailoring resurfaces across other Paris runways, Lemaire still walks to its own beat. The brand remains anchored by its co-creative directors, who continue to balance subtle elegance with quiet invention. Christophe Lemaire also maintains his role as artistic director at Uniqlo’s Paris R&D center, yet the focus on his namesake line is as resolute as ever. The result is a wardrobe that speaks to lives in motion—polished, but never forced.
