PODYH melds fashion with architecture, delving into the profound essence of Ukrainian architectural legacy with its AW23 “BRAMA” collection, drawing its muse from the architectural ethos of Kyivan Rus.
Kyivan Rus architecture amalgamates stately structures and refined embellishments; it combines unassailable defense mechanisms with complex artistic designs. The inhabitants of ancient Kyiv utilized wood to manifest their unique interpretation of aesthetic construction, equilibrium of proportions, and the symbiosis of architectural shapes with the ambient environment.
“The fortified ancient Kyiv is enclosed by earthen barriers and robust wooden barriers. Entrance to this secure city is only permissible through the gate—BRAMA, which became my initial reference point to delve into Kyivan Rus. The BRAMA collection seeks to bridge a connection to the ancient inhabitants of Kyiv, striving to comprehend their lifestyle and existence during that era. It represents the soul of the populace, enshrined in wood,” elucidates brand creator Daria Plaksyuk, elaborating on the essence and implications of the collection.
The BRAMA collection places substantial emphasis on references to protective structures; the palazzo trousers replicate a wooden palisade through vertical folds; defensive barricade towers are symbolized through an overarching collar on a dress and top, simulating shingles. The Dranka cape is a reinvention of a defensive position, shielded with impenetrable wooden plank scales.
Daria Plaksyuk also revives various architectural motifs employed by our forebears in edifice decoration. For instance, the decorative pediment feature—tympanum—is represented in the scalloped base of the straight vest and skirt ensemble, while the intricate lace patterns are mirrored in the embroidery of the Merezhyvo dress.
The collection’s color palette accentuates the somberness of the architecture and maintains focus on the grandiosity of the designs. The items avoid an excess of fabric textures, centering instead on translating architectural textures using uniquely crafted techniques reminiscent of bygone artisans.
A notable addition to the collection is the upgraded Vitryak bag—originally from the KHUTIR collection—in varied versions, harmoniously integrating with the ensemble and accentuating the linkage between the roots of Ukrainian folk architecture and Kyivan Rus.
PODYH’s efforts manifest a contemporary embodiment of architectural elegance, allowing a peek into the essence of ancient Ukrainian life and tradition, while maintaining subtlety and reverence for the old.
