UNDERCOVER unveiled its Fall/Winter 2025 show in a way that felt like stepping straight into designer Jun Takahashi’s current state of mind. The spotlight hit a head-to-toe ivory look first, its sweeping sleeves skimming the runway with a measured calm. It was a quiet prelude before the collection ramped up into casual street pieces, artful textures, and dramatic shapes. After moving onto the womenswear schedule this season, the label signaled a new direction that blends comfort with a hint of renegade flair.
Takahashi, who founded UNDERCOVER 35 years ago, picked a past favorite to revive for this milestone occasion. “Now, 20 years after its original creation, I have decided to reinvent this personal best collection by focusing on the zeitgeist I feel today,” said Jun Takahashi. He originally built that 2004 theme around plush-inspired garments and a rock-muse edge, drawing on French artist Anne-Valerie Dupond’s soft sculptures and the unfiltered style of Patti Smith. Two decades later, the silhouettes re-emerged, enriched by layered outerwear, loose-fitting denim, and suiting that carried a softer structure.
Longstanding collabs got a reboot—Champion sweats appeared in sleek cuts with just enough playful detailing, while nature crept in through butterfly motifs and artful prints. The collection referenced early-2000s flair with flared shoulders and confetti-like patterns but never felt stuck in the past. A few final gowns—some festooned with over-the-top feathers—proved the label still embraces a theatrical mood when it matters.
UNDERCOVER has continued expanding its reach with a global audience, forging new retail concepts in key fashion cities and working with top-tier partners along the way. This chapter cements Takahashi’s knack for merging subculture and craftsmanship, offering a forward-looking approach that still acknowledges the brand’s punk roots.
