Chitose Abe’s sacai Fall/Winter 2025 show pushed familiar forms into new territory, underlining that women’s clothes now can channel grace alongside a sense of strength. The designer acknowledged the unsettled mood of the world but kept her focus on everyday pieces made special through clever tweaks and expressive details.
Outerwear stood out early on, with a classic nylon parka reimagined at the shoulders for a relaxed but protective feel—almost like a garment offering reassurance. Tailored blazers had built-in knit panels and attached scarves that could swing free or be tossed across the chest, giving each look a sense of choice. A crisp shirt might merge into a corset-inspired skirt, a subtle shift that made typical office fare feel less conventional. Cargo pants, dressed up with shimmer and playful fabric fringes, were paired with half-zipped hoodies and structured vests for a mix that was sporty but refined.
Abe has always been interested in how clothing moves with the body, and this season she leaned into the idea of wrapping. That concept showed up everywhere, from down jackets with flexible inserts to skirt-trouser hybrids. Soft feathers, faux shearling, and scattered sequins appeared in unexpected spots—on jacket hems, on the sides of trousers, even on shoes—proving that high-impact elements can be used sparingly yet powerfully.
A highlight came in the form of Man Ray–inspired motifs. “Photo stitch” embroidery captured the late artist’s iconic lips and eyes, taking a symbol of sensual beauty and applying it to fuzzy dresses and bias-cut biker skirts. These looks paid tribute to sacai’s ongoing dialogue between art and practicality, a balancing act Abe has refined season after season.
