Schiaparelli kicked off its Spring 2025 couture presentation in Paris with a collection that merged archival silhouettes and forward-thinking techniques into an electric statement on luxury. Under creative director Daniel Roseberry, who’s led the house since 2019, corsets took center stage, sculpting models into contoured shapes that echoed early 20th-century forms while pushing them into futuristic territory. Low-cut jackets, padded bustle backs, and airy mesh gowns—like the one worn by Kendall Jenner—revealed how Roseberry balances spectacle with a precise hand.



“We wanted to reframe the conversation around shape,” Roseberry said backstage. “Archival elements can feel alive when given the right context, and that’s where our challenge lies—bridging the past with a modern sense of excitement.”
Titled “Icarus,” the collection drew inspiration from vintage ribbons sourced in France, which informed the show’s muted spectrum of neutrals and warm earth tones. Roseberry’s atelier took those dusty hues and built them into layered satin panels, fusing old-school embroidery methods with sleek, near-futuristic tailoring. “There’s no rule that couture must be minimal to feel relevant,” Roseberry said. “In fact, I think it’s more daring to go for drama, to push technique, and to see where it takes us.”



Recent high-visibility moments—like Beyoncé wearing a gilded Schiaparelli bustier for a private performance in Dubai or the now-iconic lion-head gowns from the brand’s earlier show—underscore the house’s commitment to surreal design and meticulous craftsmanship. “The mission has always been to keep the surrealist spark alive,” Roseberry noted. “That means going beyond the expected silhouettes, beyond the usual approach to ornamentation.”



With corseted waists, elaborately padded hips, and hand-finished detailing woven throughout, the Icarus lineup reconfirmed Schiaparelli’s dedication to couture that stirs both imagination and conversation. And as the house continues its renaissance under Roseberry’s direction, it’s clear that leaning into history can lead to moments that feel distinctly—and refreshingly—of the now.
