Gucci's new High Jewelry collection looks to flowers and the sea, and splits into four families: Gucci Flora, Gucci Nodo, Everlasting G, and the Iconic Signatures of Horsebit and Marina Chain. The gems range from a 25.79-carat Santa Maria aquamarine to poppy petals cut in ruby.
Gucci Flora goes back to 1966, when the illustrator Vittorio Accornero drew a flowering print for a silk scarf Gucci commissioned as a gift for Grace Kelly. The motif became one of the House's signatures, and here it blooms again across a spread of new pieces. The family opens on poppies, a statement necklace with earrings and rings, their petals drawn in rubies over rubellite tourmaline centers that read crimson and purple. Titanium shapes the petals into full, layered forms with the volume to stand up, and the openwork au jour technique lets light pass straight through, giving each piece a living presence.
Gucci calls the Lily set the collection's highlight: the flower of Florence as a necklace, earring, ring and brooch, the petals graded in pavé and shaded from deep blue to pale, all in titanium set with blue sapphires and diamonds. The Orchid follows in white gold, with diamonds and pink Madagascan sapphires, plus a separate white orchid brooch on a white titanium stem, white diamonds across it and a vivid yellow diamond at its heart. Peonies close the family in white gold and white diamonds, soft and understated.
Gucci Nodo reworks the rope, a sailor's symbol of strength and connection, loosening it into a chain soft enough to drape, a motif the House first explored in the 1960s. The aquamarine-and-tourmaline set hangs two pendants from one necklace, a 25.79-carat pear-cut Santa Maria aquamarine and a cushion-cut Lagoon tourmaline, blues and greens against white diamonds. A matching ring picks up the diamonds and tourmaline, and a second ring frames a pear-shaped green aquamarine with blue sapphires and white diamonds. The green emerald version pairs a diamond-wrapped choker with a bracelet, each set with a deep fan-cut Colombian emerald.
For evening, the rope turns dark, worked in black ruthenium and black diamonds, with Sri Lankan yellow sapphires at the center and canary zimmi diamonds, a necklace with bracelet and ring to match. Two more sets take the same motif into lighter colors: one threads blue Paraiba tourmaline through sapphires and diamonds across a necklace and earrings; the other strings two rows of white pavé diamonds around a light blue aquamarine pendant, picked out with green emeralds, earrings to match.
Everlasting G translates the Gucci logo into jewelry, the G stretched into a long geometric line and packed with pavé. A white gold and diamond parure builds the G on hard angles, slim baguette-cut diamonds tightening the lines, a vivid green tourmaline at the center of each piece. Pared back, the logo slims to white gold and white diamonds flecked with blush-red spinels, across a necklace and earrings.
Iconic Signatures builds on two of Gucci's most enduring symbols, the Horsebit and the Marina Chain. The Horsebit started as hardware on a loafer, a stylized take on the double-ring-and-bar clasp from a horse's bridle, and it comes back here in three sets: white gold and diamonds set with green tsavorites, across a necklace, earrings and a multi-finger ring; a cooler parure in white diamonds and blue tanzanites, doubling the motif over a necklace, earrings, bracelet and ring; and a plain white gold and diamond version, the motif at its most classic. Lifted from yachting, the Marina Chain curves into a parure of its own, a double-chain pendant necklace warmed by golden beryls and yellow sapphires, with curved earrings and a stone-studded bracelet to match.
