Saint Laurent’s Fall 2025 menswear show at the Bourse de Commerce played with polarities that have defined the house since its origin: freedom-seeking artistry paired with a thoughtful, more grounded sensibility. This meeting of two approaches, famously linked to its founders, remains central to Anthony Vaccarello’s creative vision. From the audience’s first glimpse of the runway, the clash of the venue’s modern lines against weathered parquet floors and glittering chandeliers evoked old-meets-new energy. It was a subtle homage to the bygone days at the Intercontinental Hotel’s ballroom, where Saint Laurent once presented Haute Couture.
“We really wanted to use this space and, in order to do so, we had to make it happen in the demontage day between two exhibitions, hence the date,” explained designer Anthony Vaccarello backstage before the show. “There is nothing couture about this collection. I hate couture.” Yet ironically, a nod to classic craftsmanship still emerged, especially in his use of lush evening coats amplified with glossy feathers.
Dry, robust wools and tweeds emphasized the masculine direction, while artful references to Robert Mapplethorpe and 1980s Yves Saint Laurent campaigns brought a daring mood to the silhouettes. Shoulder lines were defined without veering into caricature, and these strong, elongated shapes were balanced by flowing silks, allowing the eye to wander across textures. Leather, too, appeared in confident twists that redefined typical formalwear boundaries.
Vaccarello’s fascination with exploring proportions was clear. Lengthy coats and blazers gave the impression of power, but the designer offset that dominance by draping softer fabrics underneath. It was a study in contrast, shifting between severity and ease. Though the house has expanded its footprint in recent years with projects like Rive Droite, this latest collection returned to signature Saint Laurent codes—elevated suiting, risky elegance, and a certain tension that heightens allure. The high-shaft leather boots and feather-trimmed outerwear felt like conversation starters for the bold type who appreciate tradition but refuse to be boxed in. It was Saint Laurent doing what it does best: colliding past and present to spark something undeniably current.
