Rubberised cotton, faux mink, and trumpet bags set the tone for MM6 Maison Margiela’s systematic menswear study.
MM6 Maison Margiela launches its Pitti Uomo Fall-Winter 2025 collection on July 2 2025. The house presented a study of the shade’s many registers (from burgundy to the dull gleam of gaffer tape) bathed in night-time reflections. The menswear team treated the palette not as absence but as range, letting material contrasts do the talking.
Miles Davis served as touchstone. His ability to fold sharp rhythm and loose improvisation became a cue for silhouettes that balanced discipline with ease. A single-breasted suit might return as a trench, a bomber, or a mac; each iteration kept the same quiet line while changing fabric and finish. Repetition felt deliberate, a reminder that a wardrobe evolves through insistence, not reinvention.
Texture carried attitude. Matte wool shoulders met plastified knits, rubberised cotton, taped seams, and worn-in lurex. Shine looked engineered rather than glossy. Denim, sun-bleached at the knees, momentarily broke the uniform darkness before the spotlight slid away.
References appeared with discreet wit. Stars printed across suede perfecto jackets nodded to Davis’s famous pagoda-shouldered stage wear, while collar tips and faux mink added a sliver of swagger. A “Venus in Fur” stamp, blunt and self-aware, framed the collection’s view of desire: the man both observer and observed.
Accessories followed the same orderly logic. Square- or round-toed spazzolato loafers echoed tailoring; velcro-strapped high-tops reached back to Margiela archives. There were trumpet-shaped bags, biker cases, trench belts worn rogue, modular leather gloves made with Agnelle, and motorcycle helmets that turned protection into ornament.
Shown on Florence’s menswear stage yet stripped of overt narrative, the presentation underlined MM6’s method: item first, statement second. By exchanging theatrics for rigour, the house offered a masculine wardrobe that feels assembled (piece by deliberate piece) for life after dark.
