UNDERCOVER’s new collection, titled “Interface,” marks the brand’s 35th year with a steady push-and-pull between stark tailoring and vibrant, otherworldly visuals. Jun Takahashi’s approach for Fall 2025 menswear collection opens with sober monochrome pieces—a streamlined suit, a reimagined overcoat, a polished parka—each dissected and rebuilt with exposed taped seams for a precise but offbeat finish.
Midway through, the scene flips into a haze of glowing lights and abstract chords that channel 1970s-1980s experimental rock from Germany and France. In the mix: tributes to Faust, Heldon, Dieter Moebius, and Conrad Schnitzler, whose sonic legacies inform the loose-fitting sweaters, sleeveless hoodies, and graphic jackets. One standout involves a bold, head-to-toe cyborg motif.
Takahashi then revisits his early counterculture roots, layering leggings and brushed shorts, working in plaid prints on skirts, and weaving that tartan into slim-cut jackets. These nods to punk transition seamlessly into new patterns featuring the fantastical creatures of Josep Baqué, a Spanish artist celebrated for merging human and animal elements in surreal ways.
Accessories break up any overt masculinity with items like floral-printed caps, artfully embellished bowler hats, and functional gloves that feel just a touch playful. The entire range gradually drifts toward electric shades of turquoise, yellow, and red, leaving behind the black-heavy opening. By the finale, the runway buzzes with color and contrast, reflecting a vision that’s forward-thinking while anchored in the brand’s past.
Takahashi has also continued his longstanding relationship with Nike, releasing collaborative footwear that pairs functional tech with UNDERCOVER’s off-kilter design language. It’s an ongoing sign that the label is equally at home riffing on rebellious subcultures as it is working with mainstream partners. After 35 years, UNDERCOVER still has plenty to say—calm at first glance, but always on the edge of the next shock to the system.
