Jun Takahashi pares back the palette and plants a cowboy hat on every look, sketching a Western narrative that swaps last season’s neon for dust-washed restraint.

UNDERCOVER moves from last season’s Mod-rock revival to a quieter Pre-Spring 2026, trading neon and jeweled trims for a palette of greys, chalky whites, and dry earth tones. Every one of the 36 looks carries a tall-crowned, wide-brimmed cowboy hat—its side stitched with the words “I Am Chaos”—to anchor a Western mood that stays just this side of costume.




The line-up moves through decades and genres with Takahashi’s usual ease. Bowling shirts and camp-collar jackets in washed cotton carry textured patches; linen tailoring drops its shoulders for a more languid shape; henleys, cardigans, and frayed sweater-vests add casual layers. A knit-backed leather blouson nods to punk, while stadium jackets reprise a streetwear staple.
Utility is never far away. Short-shirt sets come studded with cargo pockets; an indigo denim trucker jacket bristles with patches and the phrase “I hear more than you can hear.” Primary red flashes at a collar, deep purple lines a pocket flap—small jolts that keep the muted scheme from turning flat.




Prints are rationed for impact. A gridded camouflage—half pixel, half graph paper—closes the lookbook on a liner jacket and cargo shorts. Throughout, that scribbled “I Am Chaos” resurfaces, embroidered on flat-soled loafers or sprawled across an oversized tee, underscoring the collection’s tension between composure and disorder.
Takahashi may have lowered the volume, but the message rings clear: UNDERCOVER can find new stories in familiar signatures, swapping neon drama for dust-toned restraint without losing its edge.



