Linen suits weighing 300 grams and Blake’s live piano marked Zegna’s latest show in Dubai.
The Emirates stop on Zegna’s traveling showcase opened a fresh phase of Villa Zegna—the initiative that ties the label’s sustainability commitments to its industrial roots. After Shanghai and New York, the house chose the city’s Opera theatre in Dubai for a Wednesday‑evening presentation that doubled as a salute to Italian craft. “As a company that has always looked beyond, we are thrilled to bring the art of Made in Italy to Dubai for the first time,” said Gildo Zegna, the group’s chairman and chief executive. “This is not just a fashion show, but about reinforcing the value of Italian craftsmanship on a global stage.”
James Blake set the mood with a live rendition of “Séance,” the duet with Ludwig Göransson from Sinners. Moments later, Alessandro Sartori sent out a series of unforced silhouettes: relaxed suit‑making, precise layering, and accessories that ranged from structured bags to slipper‑style shoes. Several models crossed the runway barefoot, echoing the collection’s ease.
Sartori’s focus was weight—or the lack of it. The lightest linen suit tipped the scale at just 300 grams, completely deconstructed and unlined. The designer compared the new double‑stitching method that holds it together to “a sandwich.” He began work on Spring 2026 before the previous season had even debuted, so the airy mood was instinct rather than a response to Dubai’s heat.
That instinct shaped every look. The house’s Il Conte jacket appeared boxier, with extra room through the body. A feather‑light coat floated over sharp‑cut shorts. Shoulders sat low on one‑ and two‑button blazers; field and cardigan jackets featured deep pockets set low on the torso. Nehru shirts, worn open, replaced outerwear over anorak‑knit tops.
Material play moved the story forward: silk tabards; knit vests woven in leather or perforated suede; cashmere‑and‑linen crews draped over fluid trousers; Tussar silk and jute jackets that held their form without bulk. The palette traced a steady gradient from white and butter through pink, grey and mellow yellow, before settling into greens, rust and brown.
The show closed much as it began—quietly confident. Villa Zegna’s next chapter promises a broader stage, yet the message in Dubai stayed simple: craft matters, lightness can carry weight, and Italian know‑how travels well.
