From a Manhattan studio to a horse farm in Sweden, these labels refine personal narratives into distinctive collections winning early acclaim.
Emerging from a world transformed by upheaval, a new generation of fashion designers is offering cues to fashion’s evolving path. These six talents – Grace Ling, Burc Akyol, TORISHÉJU by Torishéju Dumi, Ellen Hodakova Larsson, Nicklas Skovgaard, and Pillings by Ryota Murakami – are showcasing what modern fashion can be. Hailing from different corners of the world, each designer brings a distinct perspective shaped by heritage, education, and an unwavering commitment to craft. From Singapore-born tech innovation to Scandinavian theatrics, they span the breadth of creativity moving the industry forward. Far from relying on clichés or fleeting trends, these designers ground their work in personal narrative, earning accolades and an expanding fanbase through authenticity.
The significance of this cohort lies not just in their diverse backgrounds but in the common threads they share. All have navigated early career obstacles with purpose: favoring invention over hype, substance over noise. Their collections have secured major prizes, coveted runway slots, and celebrity endorsements, yet each designer keeps the focus on technique and message. Whether it’s Grace Ling’s fusion of 3-D printing with classical tailoring or Ellen Hodakova Larsson’s conversion of cast-off materials into couture, these rising names balance imagination with conscience.
Grace Ling
Singapore-born Grace Ling trained at Parsons and Central Saint Martins before launching her New York label in 2020. A background in sculpture, modeling, and internships at Thom Browne and The Row inform her precision-minded approach. Early on, she handled every task in her one-room Manhattan design studio, pairing CGI pattern-planning with traditional draping to save time and fabric.
Within three years she dressed Jennifer Lopez, Kim Kardashian, and Anya Taylor-Joy in custom looks from her own label and became a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist. Winning the inaugural CFDA × Genesis House AAPI Innovation Grant in late 2024 funded her first hires and refined signatures including 3-D-printed metal corsetry and the tongue-in-cheek “Butt Bag.”
Spring 2025 brought a Manhattan flagship and a turn toward private couture orders. Her “Neanderthal” show combined scorched jersey, skeletal aluminum, and stone-textured accessories, illustrating her view that digital fabrication and hand-finishing can work together without excess waste or empty spectacle.
Burc Akyol
French-Turkish designer Burc Akyol learned tailoring from his father before studying at IFM and assisting at Dior, Balenciaga, and Ungaro. He introduced his label in 2019 with gender-fluid tuxedo jeans and satin “hands” bustiers.
A Fashion Trust Arabia award (2022) and an LVMH Prize finalist spot (2023) placed Akyol on the official Paris calendar. Reviewers praise his controlled sensuality: black satin jackets sliced with sheer panels, Studio 54-tinged gowns cut on flawless bias.
His “Fem” collection for Fall 2025, shown at the Institut du Monde Arabe, paired Turkish embroidery with pared-back silhouettes, asking how to reference Eastern heritage without cliché.
TORISHÉJU
British-Nigerian-Brazilian designer Torishéju Dumi studied menswear at London College of Fashion, staged an independent, off-schedule graduate show in 2018, and earned a Central Saint Martins MA before launching TORISHÉJU. Naomi Campbell opened her Paris debut in 2023.
Choosing careful growth, Dumi skipped a season to secure funding, then returned in March 2025 as an LVMH Prize finalist. Her “Ship of Fools” collection transformed Hieronymus Bosch allegory into buoyant jackets, inside-out corseted gowns, and wind-swept silk that echoed a generation trying to stay afloat.
Producing in London with deadstock fabrics, TORISHÉJU favors a made-to-order model. Storytelling drives every piece, mining folklore, family history, and social commentary to explore why we dress—not just how.
Ellen Hodakova Larsson
Raised on a Swedish horse farm where everything was repurposed, Ellen Hodakova Larsson built her label on upcycling. Belt dresses, spoon corsets, and boot-leather bustiers sparked celebrity interest from Kylie Jenner to Cate Blanchett. In 2024 she became the first Swede to win the LVMH Prize.
After moving her shows to Paris, Larsson mined personal memory for Spring 2025: zipper-fringe skirts echoed childhood sewing kits, while lens-studded coats resembled cabinets of curiosity. She sources deadstock locally, often working beside the menders who taught her to sew.
Fall 2025 tightened the vision—Victorian lace tablecloths merged with tailored blazers, vintage fur hats morphed into mini-dresses. Mentorship now helps Hodakova scale responsibly; the work, not fame, remains the brand’s voice.
Pillings by Ryota Murakami
Osaka-born Ryota Murakami named his label after the tiny fuzz balls (“pills”) that gather on well-loved sweaters, an ode to knitwear’s lived-in charm. After Coconogacco, he launched in 2014 with his mother, rebranding as pillings in 2021. Collaborations with veteran knitters allow larger runs without sacrificing handwork.
Murakami felts, shrinks, and deconstructs wool so it puckers unpredictably: sweaters sprout extra sleeves, dresses bloom like coral. LVMH Prize semi-final status in 2025 brought global attention and new wholesale partners.
Autumn 2025 revisited archive methods and pushed further—cardigans ruched into columns, blanket-coats laced with artful holes, zip-pocket dresses spilling lining like toy stuffing. Teaching remains central as he works to safeguard Japan’s hand-knitting skills.
Nicklas Skovgaard
Copenhagen designer Nicklas Skovgaard is largely self-taught; a thrift-store toy loom sparked his first weaves. He debuted at CPH Fashion Week in 2023 with performance-art runways where dancers dressed themselves mid-show, mixing ’80s neon taffeta with playful avant-garde shapes.
Success in the CPHFW New Talent program doubled revenue and won stockists like Dover Street Market. Skovgaard credits his mother’s aerobics tapes and family stories for the brand’s campy exuberance.
Each season he sharpens construction while leaving room for joy—guests still exit smiling, sometimes literally dancing.
