Weekly Spotlight: Fenty Beauty x Olympics, John Galliano leaving Maison Margiela, and More
By Sirena Kuo
1. Creative Director Peter Hawkings Departs Tom Ford
Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford’s creative director since 2023, has exited the brand after its acquisition by Estée Lauder and Zegna. Estée Lauder announced that a successor will be named soon. Hawkings, who established Tom Ford Menswear in 2006, took over after Tom Ford’s $2.8 billion sale. His collections paid homage to Ford’s iconic style but faced criticism for being too safe. With a slowdown in demand, the brand relies on fragrance and eyewear sales. Zegna plans to expand stores and relaunch womenswear but faces uncertainty due to Hawkings’ departure and weak trends among Chinese consumers. More details are expected during Zegna’s upcoming conference call.
2. Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty Announced as Partner for Paris 2024 Olympics
Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty is taking center stage as a premium partner for the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games, marking a significant leap for the brand renowned for its inclusive ethos. Announced in true Rihanna style via Instagram, the partnership was humorously unveiled with a photo replacing her partner A$AP Rocky with a giant Fenty lip gloss, captioned, “Proud to announce Fenty Beauty as a premium partner of the Olympic and Paralympic Games baby!!!”. This collaboration will see Fenty Beauty providing makeup kits and expert advice to 600 young volunteers at the Victory Ceremony, reinforcing the brand’s mission to make beauty accessible to everyone, regardless of background or skin tone. This move underscores Rihanna’s savvy business acumen and her growing influence in fashion and beauty, building on the buzz from her memorable Super Bowl halftime show makeup touch-up, which spiked Fenty Beauty searches by 833%.
3. John Galliano Reportedly Leaving Maison Margiela for New Role at Fendi
In the latest shuffle of fashion’s top creative minds, John Galliano is rumored to be leaving Maison Margiela this fall, ending his remarkable 10-year tenure. Industry insiders suggest Galliano, despite owner Renzo Rosso’s efforts to retain him, is set on moving, possibly to Fendi. Galliano’s departure speculation gained traction after his Instagram went dark, hinting at a new chapter. His tenure at Margiela has been nothing short of spectacular, with his most recent haute couture collection in January receiving widespread acclaim for its dramatic presentation under Paris’ Pont Alexandre III. While whispers of a return to Dior have circulated, Galliano is more likely to join Fendi, currently helmed by Silvia Venturini Fendi and Kim Jones. An OTB spokesperson acknowledged the ever-present rumors in fashion but offered no confirmation. As the fashion world buzzes with anticipation, Galliano’s next move remains one of the most watched developments.
4. BLACKPINK’s LISA Joins Louis Vuitton as Newest Brand Ambassador
BLACKPINK’s LISA has officially joined the ranks of Louis Vuitton as their newest brand ambassador, solidifying her status in the fashion world. Her collaboration with the French luxury house began buzzing when she attended their Fall 2024 RTW show in March, a move anticipated due to her connection with Frédéric Arnault, LVMH Watches CEO. This partnership follows her previous role as a brand ambassador for Celine, where she even walked in the brand’s Summer 2022 show. As a solo artist, LISA joins her BLACKPINK bandmates, each of whom has secured major fashion ambassadorships—Jennie with Chanel, Jisoo with Dior, and Rosé with Saint Laurent. Lisa, who recently launched her management company Lloud Co. and debuted her single “Rockstar” at No. 4 on the Billboard Global 200, is also set to star in HBO’s The White Lotus season three, filmed in Thailand. Louis Vuitton’s creative director Nicolas Ghesquière praised her bold and creative spirit, marking an exciting new chapter for both LISA and the brand. She joins an illustrious lineup of ambassadors including Zendaya, Sophie Turner, and BTS’ J-Hope, further blending the worlds of music and high fashion.
5. Paul Andrew Takes the Helm at Sergio Rossi as Creative Director
Sergio Rossi has appointed Paul Andrew as its new creative director, marking a significant shift for the brand now under Lanvin Group. Known for his innovative work at Salvatore Ferragamo, Andrew aims to revitalize Sergio Rossi, famous for its $900 sandals and 1970s-80s collaborations with Gianni Versace and Azzedine Alaïa. The brand, which faced challenges under Kering’s ownership, saw a revenue dip to €60 million in 2023 and an 85 percent share drop since Lanvin Group’s IPO in 2022. Recent leadership changes, including CEO Helen Wright and Lanvin Group CEO Eric Chan, underscore efforts to steer the brand toward profitability. Chan praised Andrew’s vision, aligning with the mission to blend Sergio Rossi’s heritage with contemporary design. All eyes are on Andrew to rejuvenate the iconic luxury footwear name.
6. Off-White and Toteme Join the Lineup at NYFW
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has released the preliminary schedule for New York Fashion Week, featuring a fresh lineup of around 60 designers. The Spring/Summer 2025 season will launch on September 6 with Area and conclude on September 11 with CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund 2023 winner Melitta Baumeister. Making a significant move from Paris to New York, Off-White, under the creative direction of IB Kamara, will present its collection on September 8. Toteme, known for its minimalist Swedish aesthetic, is also set to showcase on September 10 after showing in Paris last season. This season’s schedule includes fewer participants compared to January’s Autumn/Winter 2024 lineup. Missing from the preliminary list are Gabriela Hearst, Altuzarra, and Helmut Lang, now directed by Peter Do since May 2023, along with newcomer Fforme. Proenza Schouler and Ralph Lauren will present off-schedule on September 4 and 5, respectively. Alaïa, which opted out of haute couture week in June, will make a return on September 6, joined by Ronald van der Kemp making his New York debut. Theophilio, after canceling its February show, is back, along with 3.1 Phillip Lim, Khaite, Carolina Herrera, Coach, Collina Strada, Diotima, Eckhaus Latta, Elena Velez, Michael Kors, Luar, Tory Burch, Sandy Liang, Willy Chavarria, and Cos. This season promises a vibrant and innovative array of shows, keeping New York at the forefront of the fashion world.
7. Investors Demand LVMH Action on Dior Labor Rights Issues
The recent spotlight on Dior’s supply chain practices has ignited a firestorm among LVMH investors, calling for heightened scrutiny and transparency. Italian prosecutors have exposed sweatshop-like conditions at factories linked to Dior, a revelation that has rattled Europe’s top asset manager Amundi and others, who collectively hold significant stakes in the luxury giant. Amundi, holding a $2.2 billion stake, has been vocal about the need for LVMH to revamp its supplier audits and ensure fair treatment of workers. Dior, now led by Delphine Arnault, has cut ties with the implicated suppliers and dismissed claims about the low-cost production of their high-end products. The backlash comes amid a broader industry push for ethical practices, with rivals also under the microscope. LVMH, under the helm of Bernard Arnault, is updating its supplier code of conduct and working towards cohesive standards across its vast portfolio. This comes as the Italian antitrust authorities launch a separate probe into Dior’s marketing claims. The conglomerate’s challenge lies in balancing rapid growth with responsible practices, a narrative that resonates in the $1.6 trillion global luxury sector.
