What does modern power look like in fashion? Pieter Mulier has a clear answer — and it doesn’t involve hype.
There’s something distinctly un-modern about the way Pieter Mulier moves through fashion — and that’s exactly the point. After spending over a decade shaping collections behind the scenes at some of the industry’s most respected houses, he stepped forward in 2021 as the creative director of Alaïa. Rather than making noise, he chose precision, clarity, and restraint. The result was subtle but unmistakable: Alaïa regained its pulse, proving that power in fashion can be gentle, considered, and enduring.
Architectural Foundations and Quiet Influence
Born in Belgium and trained as an architect, Mulier entered fashion through a less conventional door — a background that continues to inform his sculptural approach to silhouette and line. In the early 2000s, he joined Raf Simons’ studio as an intern, quickly becoming integral to the creative process across several major houses. From Jil Sander to Dior and Calvin Klein, his influence was often quiet but undeniable, marked by an insistence on form, clarity, and construction.
By 2018, following the end of the Calvin Klein chapter, Mulier had amassed a formidable, if largely backstage, reputation. His appointment at Alaïa marked a turning point: a move from co-pilot to auteur. And in true Mulier fashion, his leadership hasn’t been about disruption — it’s been about refinement, continuity, and a reverence for the craft that refuses to chase the algorithm.
“We don’t really talk about fashion anymore… after 16 years together, it’s time for something else.”
— Pieter Mulier on Raf Simons, Vogue, 2024
Stepping into Alaïa
In July 2021, Mulier presented his debut Alaïa collection for Winter/Spring 2022 during Paris Haute Couture Week. The collection, shown intimately on Rue de Moussy outside Azzedine Alaïa’s original atelier, made clear his reverence for Alaïa’s legacy. He meticulously studied the founder’s archives, learning the craft and the history stitch-by-stitch, detail-by-detail.
Azzedine Alaïa, the legendary designer known for precise, sensual designs that redefined femininity, had set a daunting legacy. Mulier embraced this challenge respectfully, carefully preserving the house’s identity—body-conscious silhouettes, meticulous knitwear, masterful leatherwork—while subtly introducing his perspective. Rather than chasing spectacle or trends, his approach prioritized timeless elegance, resulting in a debut marked by quiet strength and powerful sophistication.
“They can still be worn today – that’s what I want to continue to create, clothes that will stand the test of time.”
— Pieter Mulier, Wallpaper, Sept. 2, 2022
Mulier’s Alaïa quickly found resonance, notably in accessories like the mesh ballet flats, initially slow sellers but soon ubiquitous, capturing a subtle yet definitive shift in contemporary fashion taste.
In February 2023, Alaïa reached a new level of cultural visibility when Rihanna took the stage at the Super Bowl halftime show wearing a custom red leather maxi puffer coat designed by Mulier. The bold, sculptural outerwear—layered over a Loewe jumpsuit—was not only a striking visual statement but also a tribute to the late fashion editor André Leon Talley, known for his signature red Norma Kamali coat. Mulier’s design became instantly iconic, highlighting his ability to translate Alaïa’s heritage into powerful, modern moments that resonate on a global stage.
The Thread and the Craft
Mulier’s commitment to craft took a remarkable turn with his Summer/Fall 2024 collection, internally named “The Thread.” Every garment—ranging from finely-knit dresses to meticulously tailored jackets—was created from a single continuous merino wool yarn, a remarkable feat of textile innovation. The collection’s intimate presentation, held in Alaïa’s Paris boutique, invited careful observation of every garment’s construction.
“This collection is about simplicity and purity, about less meaning more.”
— Pieter Mulier, Elle, 2024
Critics praised this presentation as a testament to disciplined restraint, notably fashion critic Cathy Horyn, who called it “an extraordinary exercise in restraint.” Architectural gowns resembling structures like the Guggenheim Museum illustrated Mulier’s thoughtful integration of his architectural roots into fashion, highlighting the synthesis of form and fabric central to his vision.
New York, Again
In September 2024, Alaïa returned to New York for the first time since the 1980s, presenting the Winter/Spring 2025 collection at the iconic Guggenheim Museum—an idea encouraged by Anna Wintour after Mulier’s earlier Paris presentation.
“The last show we did in January… Anna came backstage and said, ‘I think this is one you should have shown in New York. Why don’t you come next season?’ So that’s exactly what Alaïa did,” Mulier told Vogue.
The show paid tribute to mid-century American designers like Claire McCardell, Charles James, and Halston, capturing the essence of American design history without imitation. Structured gowns, jersey dresses, and luxurious shearling coats walked through the museum’s spiraled galleries, creating a dialogue between past and present, America and Europe.
Fashion insiders and critics alike heralded the collection as a powerful expression of contemporary femininity, balance, and restraint. The Washington Post called it “a treatise on how to be sexy in 2024,” while W Magazine recognized it as a pivotal collection, further cementing Mulier’s status as one of fashion’s most quietly influential voices.
The Present, and What Comes Next
By 2025, Pieter Mulier’s thoughtful approach has defined Alaïa’s new era—not merely as heritage revival, but as a vision equally respectful of tradition and innovation. His clothes, always refined, always disciplined, communicate deeply-held beliefs about quality, restraint, and timelessness.
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Unlike designers chasing fast trends or viral moments, Mulier operates at his own considered pace. He designs quietly, focusing on lasting impact rather than immediate applause. His meticulousness is neither flashy nor loud—but it resonates profoundly within a fashion landscape often dominated by noise.
Now, as Alaïa moves forward, the industry watches closely. Mulier’s thoughtful, measured approach doesn’t merely suggest an alternative to modern fashion’s rapid cycles; it offers an elegant answer to how a historic house can thrive without compromising its identity. Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa speaks clearly, confidently, and precisely because it doesn’t speak louder than it needs to.
